How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 


Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 


Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 


Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(241 to 280 of 590)

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/8/2017 

JR - Take a look at our guide on "How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values" in particular steps 10 and 12. If that doesn't help, and your cell is approaching 5 years of age, you may need a need cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/5/2017 

Hi - just replaced by Turbo Cell (t-3), but I seem to be having a problem with my controller. I've had my water tested by my local pool shop, so I know there is sufficient salt and that the water temperature is okay (78 degrees F). When I start the pump, the Power and Generating indicators light up once the water gets flowing. After 20 seconds or so, both lights will click off. After several minutes, it will cycle through this again (both lights come back on for 20 seconds or so, then turn off for several minutes). I ran through the diagnostics on the controller - the cell voltage will build up to 27V or so, but then it drops rapidly to 2-4V and that's when the Power and Generating lights click off. It will gradually climb up again, and Power and Generating lights will alight.

Cell current remains at 0.00 amps - no change here at all. Desired Output is consistent with the knob position, e.g. 76p. Instant salinity is also registering -0.00 at all times. Product name is AL-1 (I'm not the original owner of this pool - not sure what else may have been done here). Software revision is r 1.55. Chlorinator cell type is T-3 (I confirmed with the instructions on the new cell once I received it last week).

Any ideas? Thanks...

 Reply

 Posted: 4/5/2017 

How do I know if my cell or the board is bad? I've added the recommended salt, cleaned the cell, etc and the readout stays on 1900 and it still says, inspect cell, and check salt.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/4/2017 

Carmel - It sounds like your main PCB has failed. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem further. Or give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their technical staff should be able to analyze your problem.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/4/2017 

HomeOwner - Make sure all your cable connections are tight. Then try reseating the Display board - lift it off and back on the main PCB. Then check for other possible burned components on the main PCB. If the thermistor was bad, you may have other failed or failing components. If no solution, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/3/2017 

Power indicator green, digital readout salt level 3200, all appears in order. When switched to chlorinate, generating light went green. After about 15 seconds all lights went off except digital readout. Turned system off and restarted and same problem. Is there any way to run diagnostic with the digital readout?
 Reply

 Posted: 3/30/2017 

The letter "L" is displayed on the screen. I replaced the thermistor a few months ago and everything seemed fine until now. Any suggestions? Thank you.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/23/2017 

anonymous (no flow) - Operationally, the no flow light will come on whenever you have insufficient water flow in your system to run the SCG. If shuts off. One common cause for low flow is a clogged impeller. See our guide on " How To Clean Out a Pool Pump Impeller".
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/23/2017 

Ginab - If you have just installed this SCG, check that the jumpers on terminal TB1 are configured for the right supply voltage, 120 or 240 VAC. Inspect the main PCB for any damaged or burnt components. If so, the main PCB may have to be replaced. Try removing and reseating the DSP board onto the main PCB to make sure all pins are making contact. If none of this works, you may have to take the control box in for a full diagnostics checkup.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 3/22/2017 

My pool pump stopped and after checking I found a red "no flow" error light on my salt generator. The pump restarted after about 15 minutes and the light had turned off and the green generating light was lit. Any idea what's causing this? It's happened a couple of times today.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/22/2017 

Any idea why none of my LED's are lit up? Pool is on and running, display shows all my readings we just have no lighs lit up at all??
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/20/2017 

Bobby – I don’t think there is a problem with the AquaRite SCG being on when the pump is off. However, the generating chlorine light should not be on when the pump is off.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/20/2017 

Monso – Check to make sure the plugs to the control unit are in all the way. If they are tight, you may need a new main PCB.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/17/2017 

I originally set my Aqua Rite running 110v. No reason, just picked that voltage. Everything worked fine, except the unit would still have power when the pump wasn't running. According to the manual, it states it should turn off. Not sure why, probably just a precaution, but that bothered me.

I rewired to 220v, and power on/off with Pump was successful... but now I began to have all the issues I read on other posts (Inspect cell, always generating salt, etc). I went back to 110v, and it works great! I dunno!? I'll go with this and leave the power on I guess.

 Reply

 Posted: 3/16/2017 

power light and generating light work sometime and dont work sometimes
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/10/2017 

Dave - Check that the connections from the cell to the control units are secure. Then remove and clean your cell in an acid solution. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell". After you replace the cleaned cell, remember to press the diagnostic button next to the display for 3 seconds to reset the countdown timer.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/8/2017 

I have an Aqua Rite salt water system. I shows low salt level so it will not generate. I have checked the salt and it at a good level. What would cause it to show low salt?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 3/6/2017 

SD Al - This is usually an indication that your cell has to be cleaned or replaced. If you haven't cleaned your cell in the last year, try cleaning the cell first. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell". If that doesn't work you probably need a new cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/4/2017 

Low Salt red light alarm on (continuous). Just had water sample tested at 2 separate stores and each report pool salt is High. Also have Inspect Cell red light alarm on (continuous).
Any thoughts? Wondering if it's time to replace the Chlorination Cell?
Thanks.

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/6/2017 

Jared - See our guide on "How To Know When a Salt Cell is Bad - General". It will give you many of the things to look for when your system is not producing chlorine. If you haven't cleaned your cell in the last 1-2 years, that's a good place to start.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/4/2017 

Hi,

My Aquarite control pad shows everything is functioning normally but not chlorine is bring produced. No salt is being used; chlorine levels are low.
Is it a bad salt cell? Any way to verify first before replacing?

Thanks!

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/19/2016 

Milan - If you bought the cell from us, please give us a call at 407 834-2200 and we will help you with the warranty.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/19/2016 

jmmymak - It sounds like your cell needs to be cleaned or replaced. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell".
 Reply

 Posted: 12/16/2016 

I have a 5 months old Hayward SWP15 and looks like the T-cell 15 is prematurely losing it's life. Chlorination rate is at 100P since installed. Lately, the current will drop down to zero after 30-35 mins and will not come back up until the power is cycled. The cell is literally clean like new. System light indicators are normal, water temp is within range and water chemistry is properly maintained and dialed in. Attempted to call in for warranty service but turned out very frustrating, like a ping-pong ball :-(
 Reply

 Posted: 12/12/2016 

My salt reading on the aqua-rite is 900, and the check cell and low salt lights are illuminated. However, the actual salt reading, according to my technician, is 3500+ I've recalibrated the system numerous times, but the level reading stays around 900.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/25/2016 

Thanks so much for the insight and recommendations. I will check both the polarity and cell. Thanks again!
 Reply

 Posted: 11/21/2016 

I should add to the post below that the Power LED and Generating LED are both green. I have noticed that when the chlorine is set to below 50, the voltage reads 31.5 and the amps read 0.0 indicating (according to the manual) that the system is NOT generating chlorine. However, when I turn the chlorine setting to above 50, I hear a click and the voltage drops to 26.2 and amps come up to 5.12 indicating the system is generating chlorine (per the manual). In all of the cases I just described, the Power LED and Generating LED are both green. No other LED's are illuminated. Any suggestions ?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/21/2016 

GaryT - If your Desired Output % is set between 10 and 20%, the SCG will only operate for that % of the pump's on time which could be around an hour for an 8 hour run time. Also, the cell reverses polarity periodically. Check the amperage for each polarity. To switch polarities manually, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to OFF to AUTO. If the amps for either polarity is 0, you may need to replace the main PCB. Finally, you may just need to clean the cell even if it looks clean.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/20/2016 

Hello. I've been having a problem with low Chlorine. All LED"s are "on" as if the unit is performing as it should. Salt reading is 3000. After investigating the problem, I discovered that my amperage is at the correct level (about 5.1) for about 1 hour of operation, then it will drop to 0.0. Do you have any suggestions on where the problem may exist ?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/31/2016 

High chlorine - I'd lower the desired CL level to 20% or even turn it off for a couple of days. Your high chlorine level should burn off fairly quickly. Then try maintaining your CL level at 20% to see if that controls your CL.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/30/2016 

Our chlorine level has been consistently very high over the past two months and we cannot get it under control. We're only running the system for 6 hours a day since no one is swimming in fall. The chlorine setting is down to 40 and we usually run it between 45 and 50. And there has been no significant change in water level. I also added the chemical to lower chlorine which slightly lowered it for a few days then it shot back up. Any ideas as to how to get it under control?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/24/2016 

Matt - It sounds like your main PCB has failed. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem further. Or give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their technical staff should be able to analyze your problem.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/24/2016 

Pat - Thank you for your feedback. It will help other people.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/22/2016 

All lights on the control panel are illuminated on both auto and super chlorinate settings, how do I know if the unit is functioning?
 Reply

 Posted: 10/20/2016 

Just a follow up to dropping salt readings. I called Hayward, they walked me through an AMP check. Amps too low, T-3 gone bad. $ years old. Changed the cell. Back up and running. But, I had added salt thinking it was low. Sitting at 4000 ppm, unit shuts down, too much salt. lol. I was able to trick the unit by making it think its a T-5 cell. It is running ok until I can drain some water.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/20/2016 

Nutria - Cells should last more like 5 years unless you have had trouble maintaining your pool's chemical levels. Make sure the cell's cable is plugged into the control box socket all the way. Then clean your cell with a muriatic acid solution. Check that your displayed cell type matches your installed cell type, t15. Reset your average salt level. See our guides for each of these procedures. If none of this works, you may need a new cell.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/18/2016 

I have a 2 year old Hayward t15 turbo cell. Has been working fine till last week when it shut off for zero salt. Salt is actually at 3000 ppm. Cell looks pristine on inspection. Has my cell gone bad?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/17/2016 

saabman - Sounds like you may have the same problem that several other people have had - a bad Current Limiter (CL) on the main PCB. See below for comments to and from Jl, Anomymous, Toucando and 68GS(Roy).
 Reply

 Posted: 10/17/2016 

after having no power for 5 days following the hurricane, my generator has a functioning display (LCD) but the power button will only stay lit for a couple seconds. the generating light will stay on slightly longer. pool is green and getting greener :( any thoughts.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/1/2016 

5 low - I haven't seen that display either. Is it maybe 'S low' for salt low? When you replaced your T-cell, did you set the displayed T-cell to t-3 so that it matches the installed T-cell? And did you reset the average salt level? See pages 4 and 5 in Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. This guide also provides a number of diagnostic tests to help further isolate your problem.
 Reply