How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 


Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 


Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 


Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(481 to 520 of 590)

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/15/2015 

MiltMooney1964 - Five years is about the life of a cell depending on how well pool chemistry is maintained. I would replace the cell first. If that doesn't solve your cycling problem, you may have to replace the PCB.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/14/2015 

My PCB appears to be working as all displays and lights are functioning. However, it is in a loop. I hear an audible "click" and watch the cell current drop to 0.1 then slowly climb to 18.0 +/- where the Power light and Generating light come on. They stay on for a few seconds then both lights turn off, I hear the click and it starts over again. My water is becoming cloudy and I believe I'm beginning to see a green tint (my wife doesn't see the green...my paranoia I'm sure). Pool is ten years old but I've replaced both cell and PCB in the past five years. Cell going bad?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/12/2015 

no LED lights - Sounds like a bad PC Board. See the comment from A Texas Yankee posted 8/10/2015. He has a possible inexpensive solution that you may want to try. Look at the video in the list of links he provides. Also look at comments from jrs - 8/17 and HK - 8/30. This appears to be a common problem.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/9/2015 

The no flow light comes on when I start up pool system but once flow is established no lights are on but the digital numbers are on. I checked fuse it is alright
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/7/2015 

Bob s - You are correct on the fuse. No lights would come on if the fuse was blown. But I have not seen a case where the lights flash on when the system is turned off. I suggest calling Hayward on this. Their number is 866-772-2100.
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 Posted: 10/6/2015 

There are no lights lighting up on my aqua rite board. When I turnthefilter off the lights come on on both panels (I have two systems and two panels) . They flash for a few minutes the light up like they are generating and then go off. I was told this is the transformer that is out. Does this sound right. It must not be the fuse or the lights wouldn't come on at all correct?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/1/2015 

Bob - It could be that your pool vac (suction?) is adding enough resistance to the system water flow that it is pulling your GPM down below what is required to keep the SCG running - leading to a "no flow" indicator. When your "no Flow" LED goes on, I would expect that your "generating" light goes off. If everything else is working fine, you should be all right. You just won't be generating chlorine when you are vacuuming.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/30/2015 

My salt generator reads no flow when the pool vac is running, otherwise works fine
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/28/2015 

mpool - Even if your SCG is not generating chlorine for any number of reasons, it should display something other than "0" for the salt level default value. I would suspect you have a bad PC Board but check with Hayward/Goldline at 866-772-2100 to confirm before you buy a new board.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/27/2015 

The display keep showing 0 even when I reset it.
What could be the problem

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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/23/2015 

Jason - Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector in the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Check that the cell size displayed matches your installed cell size, T15. See our guide on "How To Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aqua Rite SCG". Check water temperature - has to be above 50 degrees for the SCG to operate. Take a sample of your pool water into a local pool store and have them check for salt level - has to be above 2400 to generate chlorine.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/22/2015 

I just changed my turbo cell T15. My switch board power light is on but not generating. The check salt and inspect cell has a steady rec light and the no flow light has a flashing red light. I tried to do all the reset things but did not work. Please advise.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/31/2015 

lights all off - Sounds very similar to problems caused a bad current limiter on your PC board. See comments below from HK, jsr and A Texas Yankee.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/30/2015 

Thanks Texas Yankee. You saved this Alabama Rebel about $200.00. $10.00 current limiter AS32 2RO25. I'm generating again.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/29/2015 

My aqua rite's LED indicator lights are completely off. although it is still displaying numbers, it seems like the salt indicator is wrong as well. I had a ray of hope when I cleaned the cell and reinstalled it as one of the indicator lights came back on for a few seconds. any ideas?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/28/2015 

tnate12 - Take a sample of your pool water to a local pool store and have it tested for salt level. It sounds like your salt level is too high. If the salt level is significantly above 3500 ppm, the SCG will not operate. To reduce the salt level you will have to drain a portion of your pool and refill it with fresh water.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/28/2015 

Gwiser - I suggest you call Hayward on this one. Their number is 866-772-2100.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/27/2015 

I have no lights ( power, generate or super generate). The limiter was fired and damaged board. I replaced the board but now generate came on for 10 seconds and back to nothing. Any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 8/27/2015 

Recently installed Hayward t15 cell to an existing Aqua Rite SCG system that had been inactive for several years. The PCB is operational and appears to display all diagnostics correctly. I have an issue though with chlorine generation. I have set the SCG to super chlorinate and have allowed to run continually. I check the chlorine levels daily with drops test kit and get consistently low and declining levels. Algae is a continual issue as well with the low chlorine levels. I have to shock manually and clean off algae to remove. My best guess is I added too much salt initially. Would that significantly impact the SCG's ability to generate any chlorine though? Salt test strips indicate about 3100 ppm but the Aqua Rite displays reading closer to 4000 ppm. There is also a very noticeable salt taste when in the water. Test strips read high stabilizer and normal pH levels. Any advice you can give is appreciated.

Thanks

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/23/2015 

ME - Sounds very similar to problems caused a bad current limiter on your PC board. See comments below from jsr and A Texas Yankee.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/22/2015 

My AquaRite generator controller has no lights on at all, but display has power. I cycle power and No Flow light flashes continuously for 60 seconds or so, then No Flow light goes out andGenerating light come on for about 9 seconds then turns off. Power light never comes on. Now all lights are off and not generating. Any ideas?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/17/2015 

jsr - Thank you for your response. It's always great getting positive feedback and knowing you had success.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/17/2015 

Thanks "Inyopools" and "A Texas Yankee"!!! Replacing the current limiter solved my problem! Less than $10 fix!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/11/2015 

jsr - Sounds like a bad PC Board. If it is still under warranty, I would return it for a new one. If not, see the comment from A Texas Yankee below your comment. He has a possible inexpensive solution that you may want to try. Look at the video in the list of links he provides.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/11/2015 

A Texas Yankee - Thank you for your comments on NO LED lit and a bad current limiter. We have had several customers ask about this problem and most of the time we have sent them back to Hayward to confirm that they need a new board. Now they have another cheaper option to replacing the board.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/11/2015 

My display is working and I can scroll through the different screens however none of my lights are on. I can turn unit off and the display goes blank, turn unit back on and display comes on but still no lights for power, generating, etc... none of the eight are on. Any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 8/10/2015 

Having an bad current limiter will cause NO LED lights to be on. The no flow LED will flash during start up and then nothing. Occasionally you'll get a 30 second windows where the power or generate light will show but then shut of. Google "no power light hayward" and look how many show up. It's an cheap <$10 fix but required a little bit of soldering.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/9/2015 

karpolu - You may be pushing the "too high" level on the salt, but then your "High Salt" LED would be on. If your "Power" LED is off under your scenario, you probably have a problem with one of your PC Boards. The “Power” LED would always be on until you actually shut the SCG off. I would recommend calling Hayward/ Goldline at 866-772-2100 to confirm a bad board before buying one.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/8/2015 

I turn my pump on and the Aqua Rite display says 4100. The no flow light is flashing momentarily then goes away and all of the indicator light are off. What does this mean?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/7/2015 

no display - Sounds like you may have a bad Display PCB. If you have a Hayward Aqua Rite SCG, I suggest calling Hayward at 866-772-2100 to confirm this.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 8/7/2015 

There is no display but all the lights to the left are illuminated. The salt cell is 3 months old. not sure what is going on.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/6/2015 

kel - See our response below to jeffwltrs.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/6/2015 

jeffwltrs - Have a pool store check your salt level. If it's actually low, below 2700 ppm, the SCG will stop producing chlorine. Also the instant salt level reading will go blank when your SCG has exceeded the "Desired Output %" - i.e. if the Desired Output % is 50%, the SCG will stop generating chlorine after running for 50% of the time. Your "Average Salt Level", however, should still show a reading when your SCG is not generating chlorine. If that is blank, you may have a PC Board problem. If so, call Hayward /Goldline at 866-772-2100 for more information.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 8/4/2015 

I have a problem with power cycling on and off, with no chlorine generating. After inspecting the boards, the current limiter had a crack in it (looks like a black quarter). When I put pressure on it, it fell apart. I found the component for $6.53 at digi-key. Other forums identified the same problem and solution, replace the part if you are comfortable soldering 2-points.. My goldline aquarite is 3 years old.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/4/2015 

Having same problem as jeffwltrs. generating light goes out shortly after I reset the unit
 Reply

 Posted: 8/4/2015 

Aqua Rita salt generator with a t-15 cell! My salt is 3200 stabalizer 60! I am having a hard time getting a chlorinre reading. I had my cell checked it is ok and less than 2 years old. But, every now and then when I check my aqua rite it shows 0 salt and stop generating chlorine. I reset it and works for awhile. What is causing it to stop reading salt?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/15/2015 

RhinebeckDude - I don't know what you mean by "connected this is reverse" but, if that doesn't work, check that your cable plug is in all the way and that there are no cuts in your cable. Then, have a local pool store check you salt level to verify what it actually is. If it's below 2400, the cell won't produce chlorine. Your Main PCB or Display PCB may have failed. Call Hayward / Goldline at 866-772-2100 to isolate which board and for other suggestions.suggestions.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/15/2015 

rafael - Sorry if some of this seems obvious but just trying to cover all bases. Is switch on "OFF". Is power LED on? If not, check fuse and measure power to control box. If you have no display, the Main PCB or Display PCB may have failed. Call Hayward / Goldline at 866-772-2100 to isolate which board and for other suggestions.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/15/2015 

Ah, my brain was working during my sleep. It may be that I connected this in reverse. I will investigate.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/14/2015 

Just had inground pool liner replaced before opening it up for summer, applied recommended shock etc., pool looks great but the Aqua Rite is reading 100,,,for last several days, no change. have run the filter straight for a few days. no change. Toggled from auto to super with no change. no other error lights. it will say generating, and occaisionally no flow when I first turn it on, but then just reads 100. Anybody have any wisdom on this?
 Reply