How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 


Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 


Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 


Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(161 to 200 of 590)

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/6/2017 

michael - Make sure your impeller is not clogged. See our guide on "How To Clean Out a Pool Pump Impeller".
 Reply

 Posted: 6/5/2017 

my hayward aqua rite display panel has a red lite on for low flow and there is no light on for generating chlorine.any ideas?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/5/2017 

Jerry - Hers is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Page 17 has a series of diagnostic tests that may help identify your problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/5/2017 

I just cleaned my filter and salt generator 2 weeks ago, was working fine now has no flow light i cleaned again and checked the wire to the control everything checked good I even took the sensor out out and it looked brand new i am at a loss. Any suggestions
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 Posted: 6/4/2017 

Control Panel shows salt 2100 but lab test shows 3180.
When switch moved to auto, the light indicates generating for about 30 seconds then the Generating light goes out and the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights come on. Cell is visually clean and it passed the test on Leslie's Pool Supply test machine.
All chemistry and pH checks are in range.
Help!

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/2/2017 

Anonymous (inspect cell LED) - Try holding the display button down for `5 seconds to clear the Inspect Cell LED.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/2/2017 

LisaMarie - If your flow valve is not working, the no flow LED should be on and you will not be producing chlorine - water will get cloudy. As for accurate salt readings, see our guides on "How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite" and "How To Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aqua Rite SCG".
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/2/2017 

JFT - Here's a link to "Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual". It may help you isolated your problem further. Best of luck!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/2/2017 

Anonymous (t-15) - Try lifting the display PCB straight up off of the main PCB and then reseating it. Then make sure your displayed cell size reads t-15.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/31/2017 

If salt level is high, will the inspect cell light stay on?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/31/2017 

My flow valve is not working. I've ordered a new part . . . but until then, does anyone know if the salt reading is accurate? It's reading 3200, but the water is getting cloudy. Thanks.
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 Posted: 5/31/2017 

Thanks for the reply. I did leave the salt in the water and brushed it well for a while before turning on the generator. There was some salt not completely dissolved however. It has been about 17 hours now. Salt is dissolved. Not the generating light is not on and check salt and inspect cell lights are still on but not blinking. I will try to clean the cell with M acid and see if that helps. I just put in a new hayward circuit board. We haven't used the system in 3 years because the board was $350 previously. We realized we didn't want to continue the manual chlorine way and wanted back into our salt system. I had the cell inspected and was told they could not say it wasn't working. Hope to not have to replace the cell.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/31/2017 

I have the standard t-15 cell. The display is not having error codes but seem frozen. Temperature does not move (even though manual checks show otherwise). Salt levels do not change (even though I know otherwise). Resetting salt levels does change the display but then it remains fixed unless I manually change again. Any ideas?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2017 

JFT - They recommend that you turn off the Salt Chlorine Generator until the salt is completely dissolved. Undissolved salt causes a higher amperage draw. So the readings aren't going to be accurate for about 12 hours.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/30/2017 

I just added my 16 bags of salt after putting a new hayward circuit board in, and am getting power to the board now. Turned it on and the power and generating lights were on. After about 4 hours the level read 1700 and the check salt and inspect cell lights were on but not blinking. Do I need to wait 8 hours to see if the levels go up and if the cell is working?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2017 

ACC - I haven't seen this. A SCG system does produce very small bubbles at the head of the SCG when it is generating chlorine, but it doesn't create foam in the pool. It sounds like what the pool store says that the chlorine is reacting with some other chemical in your pool. Air in the system generally does not create foam either. Give Hayward a call and see if they have seen this reaction. Their number is 866-772-2100.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2017 

Anonymous (generating Led) - Try cleaning your Turbo cell in an acid solution. Make sure the cable plug in in all the way. Try spraying the plug contacts with a contacts cleaning spray. If none of these work, you may need a need a main PC Board. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual for some PCB diagnostics tests.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2017 

Anonymous(cell tested) - Concerning your inaccurate salt readings, did you get your cell tested Monday, and what was the result?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/28/2017 

Display reads 2600 (factory setting) but test strips indicate close to 3000,used 2 different brands of test stips. Check salt is flashing red, and cell flashing yellow which goes off when pressing display button. System is 3 years old.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/28/2017 

The pool foams whenever the aqua rite is generating. We tested the pool chemicals at the store and everything is within normal levels. There are no error lights. They said it could be residuals from algaecide, but it's been over a week and it only does it when the system is generating, not when the pool filter is running but the aqua rite set to off. It seems like a lot of air in the system causing the foam (tiny bubbles). Any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2020 

I’m having the same problem. Have you figured out why your generator is producing bubbles?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/28/2017 

"Generating" light on for 10 seconds then goes off. What is cause of this?
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 Posted: 5/27/2017 

Just sharing in case it helps someone else. Display was on, but would not reset, and no LEDs would work. Turned off the power, opened the panel, and there was an ants nest inside, and a couple ants had gotten wedged between the TB1 jumpers, bridging the jumpers on 1-2 and 3-4. This changed the configuration from 120 VAC to 240 VAC. Cleaned out the ants nest and removed the once wedged between the jumpers. All is now working great again. Now to figure out how to keep the ants out.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/26/2017 

I know my salt level is good. I've tested it with strips and had it tested. I have reset the salt level but it drops off like a rock. I reset it every other day and it will keep making clorine. If I do not it drop below recommended levels and the low salt and inspect cell light comes on. The cell is squeaky clean. Do you think this is a cell problem or a board problem? I am going to get the cell tested Monday. Didn't know if someone has had the same problem and could point me in the right direction.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/25/2017 

Abby - Recheck everything in Step 3 of this guide. Then check for low water flow. Even if you have water flowing, it might not be strong enough to operate the SCG. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". A clogged impeller, Step 6, is a common culprit.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/24/2017 

My No flow light is on, but water is flowing through. Salt level is 3100. What could be wrong?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/24/2017 

Lynne - I do not have specific information on this error, however, here is a link to "Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual". It has some diagnostics checks for LED errors starting on page 8. For further support, call Hayward at 866-772-2100.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/22/2017 

Salt cell replaced last year. It is reading 2900, but is not generating and no other lights are lit up. Have never seemed this happen before.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/22/2017 

Big D - It sounds like a main PC Board problem. Take the Main PCB out of the control unit and look for burn marks on the backside of the board. If you see any, the components or the whole main PCB will have to be replaced.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/22/2017 

Bob - Another reader had another contacts issue that he resolved by spraying the contacts with electrical contact cleaner. You might lift the display PCD off of the main PCB and try spraying the contacts with the cleaner. Please let me know if this works. It may be a general cure for a host of mystery problems.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/19/2017 

I have a 5 year old Aqua Rite control panel. When I turn on the system the digital read out always says 3000. My Power and generating LED come on and then after about 5-10seconds go out. It is no generating chlorine. Is this a main board problem or the digital read out problem? Took off the digital read out board and didn't see any problem. Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/19/2017 

Mike G - This sounds like a problem with your main PC Board. Check to see if there are burn marks around the Current Limiter on the back of your main PCB. It's a flat disc on the upper corner of the board. If that is scorched, you can either replace it (soldering) or have the whole board replaced. Often, when one component goes bad, others follow.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/19/2017 

jenfenn7 - When you replaced the flow valve, did you install it with the arrow on the valve going in the direction of the water flow? Check that the flow valve cable is pushed all the way into the control unit. Check your water pressure. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Check the back of the main PC Board to see if it has any burn marks. If so, you may have to replace the damaged components or the main PCB itself.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/18/2017 

This is my second year using this system, which was given to me by a friend. I got it working last year and it worked wonders. The only issue I had was the control board would act up. It seems if you push on the panel, it would sometimes work right, but to get there, it would show different numbers as if you were pressing the diagnosis button. The LCD screen would also fade out occasionally. I removed the panel and the circuit board with the LCD screen. I have inspected everything and can not see anything wrong. I am having the same issue again this year. I have yet to get it to generate yet this year though.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/18/2017 

Ed - You may have a bad main PCB board. Check the back of the board for burn marks around the bases of the components. If you see any marks, the components would have to be replaced or the board replaced. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problems further.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/18/2017 

Jim - Make sure your displayed cell type reads t15. Then try pulling the Display Board up off the main PCB and reseating it. Then look at the back of the main PCB for burn marks at the base of the components. If you see any marks, the components would have to be replaced or the board replaced. Also, here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problems further.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/18/2017 

My Aquarite will light up the power and generating LEDs for a few seconds and then all LEDs go out. My display board functions correctly but the LEDs cycle every minute or so of the two mentioned lighting up and then going back out.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/17/2017 

The no flow flight won't go out. I have replaced the flow valve, replaced the salt generator, total cost over $1400. Backwashed the pump till the water is almost below the skimmer, filled the pool again, still no flow light is still on. I'm out of solutions on what to do. Do you have any suggestions. The generating light isn't even on either.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/16/2017 

The led lights from power and generating are turning on and off all the time. And the system is not producing chlorine. What could be this?
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 Posted: 5/16/2017 

I have a t15 shows 0 on salt display tried to reset did not help. After few seconds power and generate lights kick out have to wait few more secones for it to reset . I have checked voltage all in spec. Any suggestions?
 Reply