As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing
cheryl Posted: 6/27/2016
Aqua Rite is reading high salt 5700...had salt level tested several times. Salt level is 3000. I have tried to recalibrate the salt reading without success. I Opened the box up and the black resistor is hot to the touch. Does this mean the circuit board is bad?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/27/2016
Canadian John - Like Nora's problem, it sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/26/2016
leslie - Check that your displayed cell type is the same as your installed cell type. Then reset your average salt level. If this doesn't correct your problem, see page 17 of Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual for further suggestions.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/26/2016
midmopoolnovice - Recheck the installation instructions and the troubleshooting section in the Aqua Trol Owner's Manual. If you bought the SCG from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038 for a possible replacement.Reply
Algae building Posted: 6/26/2016
Weather very warm. Recent heavy rains. Troubleshooting says the chlorine is low. Algae forms also from rain water that changes the pool water. I have a salt water pool. What I did was put the chlorinator into super chlorinate for remainder of pump operation.Also, pump cycle is only 4 hrs a day. Maybe boost it to 8 as recommended. Hopefully that takes care of the recent problem.
Reply
Canadian John Posted: 6/25/2016
My problem is similar to Nora's. The Power light and the Generating light are not on, yet the display shows numbers. When I reset the power to the box the no flow flashes for about 10-15 sec, the Power and Generating lights both come on but then about 10 sec later they both go out again...Reply
Anonymous Posted: 6/25/2016
My salt generator was doing the same thing. The current limiter was broken. Ordered a new one unsoldered the old one replaced it with the new one working just fine now took about an hour and cost 20.00 with tax and shippingReply
leslie Posted: 6/25/2016
Hi, my salt level reading went from 2900 to 1600 over night. I have never seen it read that low when we reopened from the winter an it was to cold to read, so what could have cause this? The check cell and check salt are flashing so i cleaned cell. I noticed a round black fuse under the main box is this something that goes bad, or does my cell just need to be replaced? If so how do i get the right one there was one on amazon but i read i needed a r1.50 or higher for that one and i believe my software is r1.33 ThanksReply
midmopoolnovice Posted: 6/24/2016
I received my Aqua Trol today and hear a rattle inside as I was unboxing. a Little concerned, timer cover was popped loose. Snapped it back on, hooked system up and powered on, power light comes on and nothing else. Will not generate either in AUTO or ON. NO WHAT???Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/24/2016
Scott - It's difficult to access what's wrong with what you've given me. My guess is you may need a new main Pc board. Here's is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual that may help you better isolate your problem.Reply
Scott Posted: 6/23/2016
My display board is not showing anything on screen when I unplug the box and plug it back in sounds lik something is kicking off in box my outlet box is fine and so is my breaker boxI have checked fuse and it's ok
I have also replaced display board
I'm lost please help thanks
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/22/2016
FXMoon - Make sure the cord is plugged into the control unit all the way. Then, I would go with replacing the relay as suggested by the Aqua Trol Customer Rep.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/21/2016
Newport News Va - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board.Reply
Newport News Va Posted: 6/21/2016
When I unplug it, then plug it back in, the "no flow" flashes for a while, then "generating" flashes for 10 seconds, then no lights are on. Any idea what it could be? I replaced the fuse today, but that didn't change anything.Reply
Newport News Va Posted: 6/21/2016
I'm just gonna disconnect all the salt stuff & use chlorine.I fought with trying to get my salt cell working all summer last year, and the pool stayed green. This morning, my pool is green again.
The only light that comes on is "no flow", then it stops flashing, and nothing happens.
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/21/2016
stealthman - The only advice I have now is the obvious that you have probably already addressed. Does the system produce chlorine in superchlorinate mode (switch to off then auto then superchlorinate). Also if your Desired Output % is less than 100%, it will not generate chlorine on the off time. E.g., if the dial is set at 50% and you are running 8 hours, the system will generate chlorine for 4 hours then shut down for the last four hours. Make sure the cable is plugged into the control unit all the way. Make sure your displayed cell type matches your install cell type. I will continue to ask around. Please let me know if you reach a solution.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/20/2016
Nora - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board.Reply
FXMoon Posted: 6/20/2016
Slightly different issue - I just replaced my cell about a month ago and everything was working fine. The salt level is 3000, temperature is 80 - everything appears to be good.I just realized over the last few days that although the power light is on, and no other lights are on nor do any flash, my Aqua Trol never generates chlorine, even if I set it to super-chlorinate.
None of the other lights are on except the power, so it appears to be working properly but it just never generates chlorine.
I tried to reset the salt level. Normally, you switch the button to Off, then back to Auto, and then wait about 10 seconds for a click. In the past, I heard that clearly. Now, the click never occurs, and the Salt level reset number doesn't change - it stays at -0.
Aqua Trol Customer Service said they think it might be the relay where the cell cord plugs into the control unit, given that the cell is less than a month old.
Has anyone had an issue like this where the power light is on, all other lights are off, the salt level is good, temperature is fine, but it won't generate chlorine? Does the fact that the click, when trying to reset the salt level, never occurs suggest anything?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Reply
stealthman Posted: 6/19/2016
So I received your second aftermarket cell. It still didn't produce chlorine but now it gave a check salt and inspect cell light. Ran through the diagnostics and whenever it did this the amps went to zero. According to the flow chart it says replace MB. Ordered a new one and went to install. Noticed the display does not go on totally straight. The two brown deals (believe capacitors) are bigger on this MB than my old one and the display sits off to the side but still able to install.Took a sample at the cell and it is producing chlorine. Yes, problem solved. 4 days later I swipe the pool and no chlorine. I unscrew the deal on the downward side of the cell while running again like last time and no chlorine. I check the diagnostics and no amps again, but no indication lights. The only thing I haven't replaced is the display, what is causing this????
Reply
Nora Posted: 6/18/2016
The Power light and the Generating light are not on, yet the display shows numbers. The red "no flow" light does come on for about 15 seconds when I first put the pump on. Would the Power and Generating lights not light if there was a circuit board issue? Would that keep my Turbo Cell from producing chlorine?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/14/2016
bil - Haven't heard of a cell humming. Could it be the transformer in the control box? If so you may have a bad transformer that heating up the unit and might need to be replaced before it cooks the circuitry.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/14/2016
Puzzeled - Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. Start with the flowchart on page 21 - "No LED's or LCD Display".Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/14/2016
Stealthman - Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. If you haven't reset your Cell Type and Average Salt Level (pages 4 and 5) try that first.Reply
bil Posted: 6/14/2016
When my Aqua Rite cell keeps making a humming sound when it is on. Is the cell bad?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/13/2016
Gwohsau - You may have to be reset your cell type and average salt level. Here is a link to Hayward’s Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. See pages 4 and 5 for reset instructions. Also, check to see if your cell needs to be cleaned (pages 14-16).Reply
Dominic Posted: 6/13/2016
Thank you soooooo much. You saved me a lot of time just knowing theyr is a 20amp fuse....a million thanksReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/12/2016
Dale - Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Start with the flowchart on page 21 and look at pages 9-12.Reply
Puzzeled Posted: 6/12/2016
I recently replaced display module on Gold line t15 cell because the power and generating led's wouldn't illuminate. The led's would work intermittently but would go out when the display button was pushed. Thinking the module was bad I ordered a new module from you. After installing the new module, I saw that the power and generating led's were now working. I pushed the button on the display and the power and generating led's stopped working and have stayed dark. Any ideas as to what is causing this to occur?Reply
Gwohsau Posted: 6/12/2016
We just had this system put in. The pool guy put in 6 bags of salt. The water tastes slightly salty but the chlorinator reads 1100 and the check salt and inspect cell lights are on. I tried the trouble shooting manuel for this selection but nothing helps. I don't want to add salt as I fear the reading is wrong (The manuel says you will only taste salt around 3400 ppm. I am going to by a tester as I fear my pool guy didn't know what he's doing. Any Advice to fix this?Reply
Stealthman Posted: 6/11/2016
Last fall my current limiter split in two so I replaced it. That fixed the issue with the power light not coming on, but noticed that the salt level read 5000 but it actually was around 3000. Fast forward and my system isn't producing any chlorine. I called Hayward and ran through all of my readings on the LCD and was told everyone was good except possibly the water temp.I had my cell tested and was told it was bad. I got a new one and still no chlorine. Had local pool place come out and they said I might have gotten a bad cell and got a new one again. Still no chlorine but this time the inspect cell and check salt light are on. I will add that unless I have it on super chlorinate or hold the dial at 100% the reading on the LCD does not match. I'm hoping someone has seen this before as I don't feel like buying both the display and motherboard
Reply
Dale Posted: 6/10/2016
What does it mean when the lights don't come on at all but the fuse is fine and there is power going to the box?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/10/2016
CarriageDr - Check that your cell is clean. Check that your displayed t-cell reading is the same as the install cell type. Have your salt level verified by a pool store. You may have dumped too much salt into your system. If your cell is 4-5 years old, you may consider replacing it.Reply
WallysWrld Posted: 6/9/2016
Inyopools & Norm:I have both an (r 1.40) & (r 1.58) PCB. On older version PCB boards (ex. r 1.40), the T-cell number is not part of the scroll menu. Its my understanding these were only good for T-9/T-15, on later versions (ex. r 1.58) the MFR decided to make one PCB that works for all T-#(3/5/9/15) that defaults to T-15. If your cell is not T-15, then you have to program/set it to the applicable T-#.
Reply
CarriageDr Posted: 6/7/2016
We opened the pool and the cell reading started at 2600 and now is down to 0 after dumping about 12 10 pound bags of salt. The cell number has not come back up? Any ideas?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/7/2016
curtis - Check to make sure that your main switch is not in superchlorinate mode. Then try to re-seat your display PCB. It just lifts off the main PCB.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/7/2016
3400 salt level - It sounds like you have to get your SCG working. I would need more information on whatit is doing. Is any of the LEDs or display on? Does the SCG work in superchlorinate mode? Does your turbo cell need cleaning?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/7/2016
Steve - It sounds like you inadvertently changed the units from Standard to Metric. To change back to Standard, see our guide on "How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCG".Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/7/2016
brian - If you haven't reset the turbo cell type or reset the average salt level, try that first. Then look at this Hayward Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It has additional voltage tests to help isolate your problem.Reply
curtis Posted: 6/7/2016
why wont the desired output change when I turn dial it stays at 100pReply
Anonymous Posted: 6/6/2016
my salt level is at 3400, but my chlorine level is at 0, they are telling me to keep shocking the pool, already ive put 20 lbs of shock whats nextReply