How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 


Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 


Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 


Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(401 to 440 of 590)

 Posted: 6/6/2016 

Salt level at 2800 per pool supply test however readout on salt is 2.20. Voltage reads between 22-25V, Current reads 4.4 - 7.8 amps. All the lights operate correctly and the cell is generating. System is 5 years old. I did an individual reading reset: "Auto to Super and back to Auto" no effect. Then I did a full board reset: "Off-auto-wait for click-press Diag button 5x-wait for stabilized display-Super Chlor-Auto". No joy. Still salt reading settles around 2.2 to 2.5. Any suggestions? Steve
 Reply

 Posted: 6/6/2016 

I opened my pool this year and the power indicator light is off but the chlorinator is reading 3400 and will not changed after 2 weeks. I have 220 power, fuse is good and I soldered a new current regulator inplace. No change. The chlorinator will read the temp, amps and other items but will not give me a salt content of the water. I cleaned the T-cell 15 with boric acid but no change. Is the control panel broken?? thanks,Brian
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/5/2016 

PatM - You may have a bad PCB or maybe your cell just need to be cleaned and reset. See page 17 of Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual for information on how to isolate your problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/4/2016 

Norm - Consider whether you have an Aqua Trol (above ground pool) vs an Aqua Rite. The Aqua Trol does not have the T-cell setting option ... or we both have older firmware versions.
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 Posted: 6/3/2016 

We recently [urchased a home with an inground pool so I am new owner of an inground pool that has a salt generator. The reading was low so we added salt at the pool man's suggestion. Now being 5 more minutes into this I got the water tested and the salt level is way to high. Dumped and am adding fresh water to get the salt level down. The question I have is that the aqua rite is showing low salt both in reading and led. Does this mean I have a bad PCB?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/1/2016 

John B - Here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It has others tests that may help you isolate your problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/1/2016 

I replaced current limiter and still nothing working. No lights come on at all. I guess I need to replace PCB. Any thoughts anyone?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2016 

awdusvi - When you generator says COLD, it thinks the pool temperature is below 50 degrees and so shuts down the generation of chlorine. As you point out , your generator is also displaying a temperature of 81 degrees so something is inconsistent, which point to a main PCB error. Also, when you go into Super Chlorinate mode, it's supposed to override the COLD reading and start generating chlorine. Check that the cable is plugged in securely. Make sure that the cell is clean. Check that the Cell Temperature Sensor is intact. Check that the value of displayed cell type is set the same as the actual cell type. Here is a link to Hayward's more detailed Aqua Rite Diagnostic Manual to help isolate your problem further. If you want to call Hayward, their number is 866-772-2100
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2016 

Sammy - This sounds like a problem with the main PCB. You may have a bad Current Limiter on your main PCB. Look at "A Texas Yankee's" solution to this problem (Comment 8/10/15). In his comment, he suggests Googling "no power light Hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/30/2016 

my board shows "COLD" yet the temp shows 80 all three lights are steady green....no blinking generating light, however algae is visible on steps and shallow end. Any one know what could cause this?
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 Posted: 5/30/2016 

My generator says cold, yet its also reading the temp at 81 I set the output to super chlorinate but still have algae growing. Any idea what could cause the false reading?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2016 

jmc - Yes, the cell should be able to raise the chlorine level on its own. Your cell might be too small for the size of your pool or the cell may be too old. The cells aren't able to produce as much chlorine when they get older.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2016 

low salt reading - Check your salt cell to see if it needs cleaning. If it is over 5 years old, it may need replacing. Make sure that the displayed "t-cell" value is the same as the actual installed T-cell.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2016 

Mr.P – If you have no reading on your average salt level, you may have a problem in your main PCB. I would suggest call Hayward at 866-772-2100 to verify this before buying a new board.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2016 

Gary – This sounds like a problem with the main PCB. You may have a bad Current Limiter on your main PCB. Look at "A Texas Yankee's" solution to this problem (Comment 8/10/15). In his comment, he suggests Googling "no power light Hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2016 

Norm – Only generating for an hour or two may be due to your pool temperature or where you have your Desired Output % set. Chlorine is only generated for a fraction of the pool pump/filter operating time. If you run your pump for 10 hours a day and you have your Desired Output % set for 20%, your SCG will only generate chlorine for 2 hours. Also, if your pool temperature is at 60 degrees, the output is scaled back to 20%. I have no idea why you don’t see the T-cell setting. That could also be part of your problem as the displayed T-cell must be set to the installed T-cell. I suggest calling Hayward at 866-772-2100 for their input.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/30/2016 

When my aqua rite is powered on the no flow light blinks for a few seconds then it goes off and the generating light blinks for a few seconds then it goes off. The power light never comes on. Removing and installing the use seems to reset it but it does the same thing when powered up again.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/30/2016 

Jeff – Sounds like you may have trouble with the timer in the control box. There is a manual power output switch at about 4-o’clock on the clock face of the timer. With the pump plugged into the timer, can you turn the pump off/on manually? If that works, recheck that you have set up the timer correctly. See page 6 of the Aqua Trol Owner’s Manual. If no success, you may need a new Aqua Trol Timer. 
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/29/2016 

Les – To see if chlorine is being generated superchlorinate, slide the main switch to “superchlorinate”, then depress the diagnostics button three times to display cell current. If it is 0, the superchlorinate function is not working, If it reads between 4.5 and 7.8 amps, chlorine is being generated. Superchlorinate is working and the LED light needs to be replaced.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/27/2016 

Opened the pool, installed a new DE filter everything seems fine, water looks great, the Aqua rite says salt level is 3200, it says it's generating, but strips say the chlorine level is very low, even after running at super chlorinate. Maybe it's a dumb question, should the cell be able to raise the level up on its own or should I be adding a bunch of shock? Does the cell only maintain the levels after you get it up to proper levels?
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/26/2016 

My system is indicating low salt and check cell. Solid LED lights not blinking. It's reading 2200 but my local pool store says the actual salt content is 3300. It is not generating chlorine.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/26/2016 

My Aqua rite salt system reads a zero salt reading and a -zero instant salt reading. My water has been tested and my salt reading is 3000ppm. I've also had my cell inspected and is fine. Kinda stuck. Anyone have an idea of what I can try next.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/26/2016 

When I turn on my Aqua Rite unit the power light and generating light come on for a few seconds, then go off. Display reads "3600". Salt level in water tests at 3170ppm. The red High Salt light does not come on. Goldline Controls phone rep says this is an indication of a short circuit and I need a technician to come out and troubleshoot. Unit is 8 years old. Should I just replace the entire circuit board or could the problem be in the cell, which is less than one year old?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/26/2016 

Aquarite runs fine for a while on auto(about an hour or two). Then amps and instant salt readings go to 0, which should mean no chlorine is being generated. The power and generating lights are still green even with a 0 amp reading. My salt reading is around 3000 ppm per the instant Aqua Rite reading when it is working and it matches my test strips almost perfectly. Super chlorinate works fine, amp and instant reading seem remain pretty constant . Also when super chlorinating then switching to auto, amps and instant salt numbers go back to zero.

The other issue I seem to have as I scroll through the setting and get to the version # which is R 1.40 the next thing I get to is that I am back to the beginning with the average salt reading. I never see the T setting!!

Thanks
Norm

 Reply

 Posted: 5/24/2016 

My Aqua Trol seems to be working except there is no output voltage to pump motor. Pump works when plugged directly into outlet. Any suggestions?
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 Posted: 5/24/2016 

Our chlorinator seems to work, everything except the Superchlorinate button. Not sure if it is just the display light (all other display lights work so I dont think this is the issue)...any suggestions? We need to be able to superchlorinate the pool, not sure what to do?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2016 

keith - Check that your cell cable plug is pushed in all the way into its socket. Then check to make sure that your cell is clean. If it is more than 5 years old, it may need to be replaced.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/23/2016 

Hank - It sounds like you may have a bad Current Limiter on your main PCB. Look at "A Texas Yankee's" solution to this problem (Comment 8/10/15). In his comment, he suggests Googling "no power light Hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".
 Reply

 Posted: 5/22/2016 

my aqua rite pro screen says "check system, cell sensor open"
 Reply

 Posted: 5/21/2016 

My Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator and all lights go out when the pump turn on and water flow starts. If I turn the pump off, within 30 secs to a minute, it comes back on.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/20/2016 

Mike M - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. Make sure that your cell is clean (Pgs 14-16. Check that your displayed cell type is the same as your installed cell type (pg 4). Try resetting your average salt level (pg 5).
 Reply

 Posted: 5/19/2016 

My salt level is at 3600 and the screen reads 1600. It won't generate because it says check salt level is on and the inspect cell is on. What do I do now?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/16/2016 

fred - Make sure your cell is clean. Check that your cable plug in pushed into its socket all the way. Check that your displayed cell type is the same and your actual installed cell type.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/16/2016 

I am getting a salt reading of "0" but the water still has a normal salt taste and feel. When testing the water, I get no clorine reading.
It's about a 15,000 gal pool. I threw in 60 lbs of salt and still a reading of "0". Thanks for your help.

 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 5/10/2016 

MrZ - It sounds like you may have a bad Current Limiter on your main PCB. Look at "A Texas Yankee's" solution to this problem (Comment 8/10/15). In his comment, he suggests Googling "no power light Hayward" and selecting the video on "Aquarite Hayward no cell power".
 Reply

 Posted: 5/10/2016 

When I turn on my unit the power LED does not come on but the no flow red light does. Within minutes the red low flow light turns off and the generating light turns on. Within a minute this green light goes off and there are no lights at all. I've tried turning the unit off and on but the same thing happens. Any idea of what's wrong. Unit is only 3 years old in June.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/9/2016 

Jeff - What have you set the SCG "Desired Output %" at? If it is set at around 25% and you are running your pump for 8 hours, the SCG will stop generating chlorine after 2 hours (25% of the total pump running time). If that isn't the issue, here is a link to Hayward's more complete Diagnostics Manual to help isolate your problem.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/5/2016 

Aquarite runs fine for a while on auto(about an hour or two). Then amps and instant salt go to 0, no chlorine generating. Power and chlorine generating lights are still green. Salt is around 3300 ppm. Super chlorinate works fine. Also, if super chlorinating then switch to auto, amps and instant salt numbers go to zero. Looking to get auto to work. The system was installed 1 week ago. Pool temp is 65.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/4/2016 

No display. Check that the cell cable is pushed into the control unit all the way. If that doesn't work, you may need a new display board. I'd give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100 to confirm this before buying a new board.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/4/2016 

Sue,
Did you figure out what the problem is? We are having the same problem with our chlorine generator. All seems to be working properly. Nothing has changed as far as electrical current, water, etc. All lights show its working but we do not have chlorine in pool. The pool is not warm yet because its only 58 degrees here in Illinois. We are just trying to get it ready for the warm weather but no chlorine is produced even when it is on superchlorinate, although the lights on the box say its working.

thank you!
Wendy

 Reply