I bought the PL7100 board and on the old board it had grey, violet, white, and blue wires. The new board has grey, violet, white, and black. I assume the blue goes to the black. Is that correct?
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Hi Scott, That is correct, the blue wire would go to the BLK.
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I bought a PL7100 and it came with no wiring diagram. The new board is different than the old. I need to verify for sure how to wire the power. It will be wired for 120V
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Hi Scott, This board will be wired the same as the OEM PCB, you can view our How To: Replace an Aqua Rite Main PCB guide for installation instructions. You can also find the wiring diagram for 120 VAC on page 23 of the AquaRite Owner's Manual.
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How do I know what model I have and if this will replace it? I have a T-15 cell. Everything is about 10 years old, the original home owners had the pool installed, I don't have any documentation. Thanks.
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Hi Mike, This circuit board will work for your system as it works for all versions of the T-15 salt cell even one that is 10 years old, so this would be the correct replacement PCB for you.
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I have a current board number 066012C-1 REV: C will the Pureline PL7100 work as a replacement? I'm concerned with compatibility since they kinda looks different.
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Hi Dave, The PL7100 is compatible only if you have the Aquarite T-CELL-15 or T-CELL-9 system.
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I have an Aqua Rite Made by Hsywood. Will this board fit mine?
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Hi Sue Yes as long as you have the AquaRite T-CELL-15, GLX-CELL-15, T-CELL-9 or GLX-CELL-9 system then this is the correct replacement for you. Normally you can look on your salt cell and there will be a label saying which model you have. The systems indicated above are by far the most popular AquaRite systems so chances are this will be the correct replacement board for you.
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Can you provide installation instructions?
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Hi John, You can watch our How To: Replace an Aqua Rite Main PCB Video for instructions. Or here is the Owner's Manual with Step by Step Instructions.
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hey i turned my aqua rite off this winter now it want come on or show any thing on display it has power and fuss is not blowed please addvices thanks Owen.
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Hi Owen, It could be the transformer of the PCB. You can use the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide to troubleshoot your unit to make sure.
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Do you sell the 20 amp fuses?
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Hello, Depending on what style fuse you need we do have 20amp fuses. The Fuse Kit 20a 10 Pack Aqua Rite/trol Part # 2807-24 is a round fuse style and the Fuse Kit 20a/yellow 10 Pk Logic/rite/trol 11/04Part # 2807-25 is the yellow tab style. You will need to remove your fuse to determine which style you have.
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In the salinity my board is reading 3.1 as it has been reading in numbers xxxx
How do I get the 4 digit numbers instead of liters
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Hi Steve, Both our How To: Replace an Aqua Rite Main PCB Video and our Owner's Manual give step by step instructions on how switch over from Liters to the 4 digit Parts Per Million (PPM) reading for salinity.
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will the board support a t-3 cell rather than a T-15?
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Hi, This replacement board is guaranteed to be compatible with any Aquarite T-CELL-15 or T-CELL-9 system. If you have the T-CELL-5 or T-CELL-3 or an automation system (AquaLink, AquaLogic, ProLogic, IntelliTouch and EasyTouch), then we suggest the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITE.
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my board I need to replace is G1-011056-1 RevB will this fit?
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Hello, Mike. Yes, the PART#PL7100 Aqua Rite Replacement Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) is compatible with the boards with G1-011056-1 RevB for the Aqua Rite Salt Systems using the PART#GLXPCBRITE.
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Hello, Do you know where I can obtain the plastic standoff supports for the Dispaly board mounted on to the main PCB board, and also the plastic supports for the main PCB board to the mounting box. The heat has made them brittle beyond saving, Thank You. Regards, Rick
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Unfortunately, the plastic parts are not a separate part that can be ordered.
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My digital readout on my Goldline panel works but none of my indicator lights will come on. power, no flow, chlorinating, super chlorinating , etc......
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I just replaced my board and all my lights are lit up and my salt reader screen not showing anything?
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Tom, Please check what voltage the the board is wired for and also double check the wire connections.
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What can keep the no flow from coming on . Manually checked new flow switch . Arrow is correct . Has well over 1 ft. straight flow Could current limiter be a problem?
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John, Are you saying that the light is coming on or not coming on? If the light is on, what is the pressure reading on the filter tank?
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These are the numbers that I see on mine, it is a t-15 cell, which replacement board do I need?
Aqua Rite
Gold line Controls
013001C-1-2
Pn. 132604. Rev:f
105005A-20 3706 31655
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The PL7100 generic Aqua-Rite PCB is compatible with your system.
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I have a question about your part number PL7100. The part number on my Aqua Rite PLC board is G1-011056A-1 and is not listed as an alternate on your list. Is your PL7100 compatible with my salt system? I do have a T-15 salt cell.
Thanks for you help.
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Hi Jerry, The PL7100 Mani PCB is compatible with the Aqua-Rite controller with the T-Cell -15.
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I replaced the circuit board but I can't get the salt reading to switch over from metric to U.S. measurements. Any other advice other than what is in the manual for getting the new circuit board to read the salt level in PPM vs. liters?
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Is the temp sensor on this panel? Mine has gone bad & I don't know where it's located. Thanks.
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Hi, The temperature sensor is located in the turbo cell; if it's bad then you will have to replace the entire cell.
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My Aqua rite chorinator panel lights go on then go off after a few minutes?
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Hi Tony, That's an indicator that the PCB has gone bad and will need to be replaced. The PL7100 is an aftermarket replacement that will work.
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board shows salt at 1800, but to check manually the PH is perfect. All lights are steady. Cell is clean.
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Hi Mitchell, You can try recalibrating the system following the steps in our How To: Recalibrate the Hayward Aqua Rite guide.
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I have a Hayward Aqua Rite Salt System. It starts to generate and then cuts off. We have replaced the Thermistor. When we reinstalled the Thermistor, it heats up real fast and then the system cuts off. We have had the cell tested and it is fine and the salt in the pool is in the proper limits. What should be our next steps? What should we test or replace?
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Hi Carol, You will have to replace the complete Main PCB. This PureLine replace is compatible with the Hayward Aqua-Rite Salt System.
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Is there a way to test my main board to make certain it is the problem? The display does not show anything and no lights are working. I thought it could also be the small display board that connects to the main board.
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It sounds like the display board, but I would give Hayward technical support a call to confirm that. Their number is 908-355-7995.
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The low salt and check cell lights are flashing. The salt readout is 2600 ppm but when I have the water checked the salt is over 3500 ppm. I have cleaned the cell even though it looked good. The Aqua Rite trouble shooting looks like it could be the PCB or the T-9 cell. Is there a way to be sure which one is the problem?
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Hi, You can first try recalibrating the controller using the steps in our How To: Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua-Rite to see if that will resolve your problem. You can also follow the steps in the Aqua-Rite Diagnostic Manual to confirm if the PCB and or the cell is the culprit.
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My aqua rite electronic chlorine generator displays the led read outs for the system however the power light and the generating lights will not illuminate could that be a fuse or something more serious
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Hi, The fuse could need to be replaced, you can use the Aqua-Rite Troubleshooting Guide to find out what's the cause of the problem.
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Im looking at my board and your board and it seems to be arranged differently. my original p/n 066012c-1, will your board work in place of mine? Thanks for your time.
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Hi, Yes, this PL7100 Aqua-Rite PCB will work as a replacement for p/n 066012C-1.
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salt system not generating. HAVE INSTALLED NEW BOARD AND IT STARTED TO GENERATE,BUT NOW NOT WORKING. POWER LIGHT IS ON BUT NOTHING ELSE.
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Hi Howard, The cell could now be the issue, you can use the Aqua-Rite Troubleshooting Manual to find out why the system is not generating chlorine.
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THE GENERATING LIGHT ON MY AQUA RITE SYSTEM WILL NOT STAY ON.
IF I TURN THE SYSTEM OFF AND THEN BACK ON THE LIGHT WILL COME ON FOR ABOUT 30 SEC TO A MINUTE AND THEN GO OUT. I AM NOT GETTING AN AMP READING ON THE CELL CURRENT ALSO. DOES THIS SOUND LIKE A CELL PROBLEM OR A BOARD PROBLEM. MY POOL HAS TURNED A NICE SHAD OF GREEN ALSO.
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Hi Greg, Based on the description you're experiencing, the Main PCB needs to be replaced.
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I HAVE AN AQUARITE SALT SYSTEM THE GENERATING LIGHT WILL NOT STAY ON. IF I TURN THE SYSTEM OFF AND THEN BACK ON IT WILL COME ON FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS TO 1 MINUTE AND THEN GO OUT. CHECKED THE READINGS ON THE DISPLAY AND THERE IS 0.00 AMPS CELL CURRENT. ALL THE OTHER READINGS SEEM TO BE OK. IS THIS A BOARD PROBLEM OR A CELL PROBLEM?
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Sounds like a board problem. Is it generating chlorine? If so, the display board will need to be replaced.
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I just replaced the old PC board on my Goldline Aquarite TCell-9 with the Aqua Rite Main PC Board PL7100. I now have NO power showing on the board. The pump is working so it's not a problem with the electrical box. I rechecked all the connections and everything is correct. On the old one, the power ad generating lights were coming on for about 30 seconds then going off for a couple minutes- which is why I ordered the new board. Any ideas????
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There are jumpers that come in the package with the main board that have to be hooked up as well for power to be able to get to the board. We have a 'How to Guide' on our website that will take you through step by step to ensure everything is hooked up correctly. Here is the link for that.
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my system makes clorine about 1/3 of the time on 100. what is the problem
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Hello Whitney, depending on how old your PCB board is it might be time to replace it. If it is a Goldline you can recalibrate it with Hayward 800-657-2287, just in case you need help/walkthough with running diagnostic.
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HELP PLEASE
i'm looking for a main circuit board for a hayward aqua rite t-cell 15 but model # are different than the original. maybe you can help - original board stamp on board is a (C)2012 / PN: G1-066012F-1 Rev A.
Other sticker # above c-1 & K2 is G1-011056-1 RevC & just under this # is GCL 13163
Bar code # @ bottom near left mounting screw is G1-015005-40 A 2413 19997
Other sticker # @ bottom near right mounting screw is 09003-158-01
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You will be able to go with the PL7100 which is the generic Hayward board or the GLXPCBRITE which is the Hayward board.
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Hello, the display on my system is reading low even though the salt level is sufficient to create chlorine. I replaced the main board & have recalibrated the panel to no avail.
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Hello, Mike. I recommend to have the water chemistry tested by a pool professional, use our guide for How To Know When a Salt Cell is Bad - or have the cell tested at a local pool supply store.
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Hi Scott, my cell is not generating chlorine and I have done the small things first. the Amps and volts read 0. changed fuses, cleaned cell (many times), changed flow switch assembly. the amps and volts will read briefly if I switch off then on, but then stops. I replaced the circuit board 2 years ago. not sure what else to do. Does my circuit board need replacing again?
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Yes ma'am, that sounds like a bad main board.
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I have an Aquarite system installed in 2007. I have replaced the circuit board once, and at that time there were different "models" of the replacement circuit board for different years of manufacture of the original generator. is this still the case and will this device work for my '07 model, and, if not, which would?
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Hi, Matthew, This Main PCB is compatible with the '07 Hayward/Goldline Aqua-Rite generators
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My aqua rite generator display reads"hot" even after disconnecting the t-15 unit and turning the switch to off. I assume a circuit board problem. Any other likely possibilities?
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Hi, Matthew. According to the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide, the "HOT" code indicates that the sensor in the cell is bad and you will need to replace your T-CELL 15.
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To what if you know is the main board failure cause, and what can i do to prevent it from happening, it seems to be a common thing. thanks
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Charlie, the main board failure is usually do to a variety of issues, mainly exposure to moisture or improper grounding in electrical wiring. keep it dry and well grounded.
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All four of the lower lights, no flow, low salt, high salt annd inspect cell are flashing . I changed the current limiter on the board with no change. Any ideas?
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Hi, Mike. I would recommend having the cell tested at an authorized Hayward Center if the cell checks out good then replace the entire Main PCB.
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i have an aqua rite 5a0604 - 1000018 what board do i need? also local pool company sez may be transformer but want $80.00 to come out an test :-( thanks
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What is going on with your system? There are more than one board for that system, the display board and the main board. Just a description of what is going on with your system so I can help you figure out the problem.
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My salt water chlorinator power light signifies no power. I was told that the problem most likely was defective power board GLXP-PCB-RITE.
Can I check this and can I install the new bnoard myself if it is the board.
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Yes, the PL7100 is the generic main board for the Aqua Rite. If you want the Hayward main board it is part number GLXPCBRITE.
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Hi -- I had burned current limiter on my board. I replaced it and now ALL my lights on the PCB stay on -- and nothing is displaying in the LCD display where it usually shows the salt level, etc. I removed that smaller panel and reattached it to be sure good connections, but it didn't fix the problem. I'm wondering if I need to replace the PCB or the smaller status board?
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I replaced the opt-pcb-rite board on my salt system because of no lights, replacement board does not show power either. Since then i had to replace a main fuse that went bad. Still no lights. How can I test the board. My local service companys say they can not help me. They want to replace the board again.
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Good afternoon Doug, I would recommend calling Hayward technical support (908) 355-7995
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temp on aqua rite panel shows HOT pool water at 80 degrees F. Where does it get temp at (sensor in cell or somewhere else
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Hi, Burt. The temperature sensor has failed which is located in the cell. To correct the "HOT" error code you will have to replace the cell.
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Hey, I have a GLX-PCB-RITE that I installed four years ago. Once you turn on the pool pump the Power LED comes on, but no other LED's will illuminate (such as the no-flow that usually comes on temporarily) and it will not generate chlorine. No error lights come on such as check cell or check minerals. Temperature is showing 58 F. I question why the No-Flow light does not come on and wonder if I should replace the Circuit board or trouble shoot more? Ideas?
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Hi, BK. Based on the info provided you will have to replace the Main PCB in your AquaRite controller.
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This is a good one, my power and generate light comes on for 15 seconds and goes off for 20 seconds and they both come back on, this just repeats itself over and over. You can hear a click which sounds like a relay at 10 seconds when the lights are on. Any ideas, have you heard of this before? Thank you!
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Hello Danny- Yes we have heard of this issue. Most commonly it is a result of the Main PCB going bad on the unit.
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I have an Hayward Aqua Rite that was installed in 2006. Will this model work with it? Also I just installed a Compupool Platinum Edition T-15 Salt Cell will it work also.
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Hello Wade- The Aqua Rite Replacement Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) PL7100 will work with your Aqua Rite system and cell.
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I have the Aqua Rite salt system PCB and have been successful in repairing my own board because when it stops working(power surge/storms/lightning, etc) it's usually only the electrical current limiter that has stopped the board from being fried. I used to be able to buy only the individual limiters (in pack of 5 or so), but can't find them now. Do you have them for purchase & how do I order? Thank You.
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Hello Mike- Unfortunately, we do not have those limiters for sale, we would only have the entire PCB board.
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I purchased a new cell GLX-CELL-5 on 3/25/2017 from Pool Supply Unlimited
I need a new circuit board for my Aqua Rite In-Ground generator, purchased from Blue Haven Pools in 2008 Item AL623
Existing is made by Goldline Controls PN: G1-066012C-1
Can you tell me which model you have I can buy and if the 4 post to set the display come with the board?
The model is AQ-RT-X288K
Mario Marrero
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You would either go with the O.E.M. board, GLXPCBRITE, or the generic board, PL7100. Either one will fit your system and both have the four posts that the display board sets on.
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I have a t9 AR Goldline and it show 3400 all the time while system is on. Does this single bad board?
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If you have reset the board and it is still not resetting correctly, it is most likely the main board, but I recommend giving Hayward a call to confirm that.
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I have the Aqua Rite Goldline G1-011056-1 RevC and the number below is GLC 13231
Will this item work for this system.
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Hi Joe, Yes the PL7100 is the correct replacement board for the G1-011056-1
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I just replaced the t-cell from t-15 to t-9 my display in not working so also bought a new display my old one is a goldline controls rev:f the new one is Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP and is not giving me the option to select the correct cell, doesn't have that option at all. and it comes on line and 5 seconds later you hear the relay opening and it flags the inspect cell light. the board is good new relays and send power. What will be my next course of action.
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I recommend giving Hayward a call to confirm that all the parts the you replaced are replacements for your Goldline. That is where I would start.
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I have the Goldline Controls PN: 066012A REV: A. circuit board. I have replaced the current limiter a couple times in the past 6 years. I just replaced it a third time and now the power light stays lit, but the pump will not start. Have you seen this before? I think the solder connection is bad on the current limiter from having to replace it several times.
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Hi. Based on the board you have it is not able to control a pump. If you pump is not coming on you will have to check the pump motor. If you controller is able to control a pump you may need to check the replay.
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I wanted to make sure that this is correct board before ordering i have G1-939001E
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Hi Ken, As long as your salt system is a Hayward AquaRite or Goldline Controls AquaRite then the PL7100 replacement board would be the proper replacement board for your G1-939001E board.
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I have the Hayward SwimPure Plus with circuit board number G1-011056-1 REVC GLC 13234. Could this circuit board work effectively on the SwimPure Plus?? THANK you.
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Hi, Mark. Yes, this PCB is compatible with the SwimPure Plus controller.
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I have a T cell 5. Will this generic board work for my system. I can't see paying extra for original equipment.
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Hi, Bill. Yes, this AquaRite Aftermarket PCB is compatible with the TCELL5 turbo cell.
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My panel reads no flow for a few seconds then power and chlorine production lights come on along with check cell light, then everything shuts off. I have had the cell checked and it works, do I need a new PCB?
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Hi. Based on the scenario described, the PCB needs to be replaced.
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I have a GL PN: 066012A Rev: A. What is the replacement controller and will the newer unit also have the ability to use the T-Cell 9? Currently I can only use the T-Cell 15 wit this controller, as far as I'm aware. I have a 12.5K Gal pool.
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Hi Wade, If you are just needing the complete power supply for the AquaRite Salt system, then you would require this AquaRite Power Supply
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I bought my last replacement board from a brick and mortar retailer. Their part description was Main PCB Aqua Rite
I bought this in Sept 2014 and not very happy it isn't reading salt content correctly less than 3 years later for my T Cell 15 and seems to require a nudge to go into generating chlorine mode.
Your Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) looks like the part. Is it?
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Yes that is the correct replacement board part number for the Aquarite salt system. The PL7100 is also a replacement. Please check out our how to guide for recalibrating the salt on an Aquarite.
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My board is bad and i am looking to replace. I have a Jandy Aqualink automation system but I am unclear as to why I would need the Hayward OEM board. Can you please explain that? The automation system doesn't change any settings in the salt chlorination system, I think.
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Hi. Since the Aqualink only sends power to the chlorine generator, you can use the aftermarket Main PCB.
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I have a main board that is getting on in years but got moisture in it (I wasn't paying attention) and 4 pins on the 18 pin IC at the bottom have actually corroded away. Question: Your "aftermarket" one is quite a bit cheaper but is it a solid replacement for the original? I have a T-15 cell. My main board is G1-011056B-1. I am happy to save about $100 but not if it is less reliable/robust as the original. Welcome your input.
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Paul, The PL7100 aftermarket replacement PCB board for the Hayward Aquarite is a suitable replacement if you are not using automation. We have sold many to date with few issues. The most common issue is that some customers do not install the supplied jumpers.
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I have just been told that my main board is bad in my Hayward Aquarite gold line system.
The number on the board in it now is G1-939001E revA. Is this compatible?
Thanks!
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Hi Krystal, Yes this would be compatible with your AquaRite board.
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I believe my mother board on my Aqua Rite is shot. My current board is a G1-011056-1 RevB GLC 11511 is this replacement compatible?
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Hi, This AquaRite PCB - PL7100 is compatible with the AquaRite controller.
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I have an aqua rite system with a T-cell-3. Will the PL7100 work? If not, what do I need
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No, in your case you would need the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITE.
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I have a hayward Goldline Plus G1-066008K-1. Will the generic mainboard work, and are the instructions the same?
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Hi Butch, I'm showing that part # is for the salt system with full pool automation where the salt system also controls your pump, lights, etc.. You will require the ProLogic Main PCB and this PL7100 would not work.
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I currently have a constant no flow error light on my unit. I have replaced the flow switch with a new one. I feel that the RJ15 socket(female) connected to the pcb may be faulty. How will I fix this problem? Do i need to replace the PCB or just rplace the socket to correct this problem?
what is the best most econiomical way to correct this no flow problem?
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Hello, please make sure that you have recalibrated your system and let run for 10 minutes, if the connection is faulty you would need to see if its the cord itself that has been cut or compromised in someway, or if the plug in area is corroded.
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I have an aqua rite goldline. the board is fried but the number on it is G1-011056-1 RevC. even when I put that number in google it asks if i meant RevB. What circuit board should i be looking to get?
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Hi Mark, You would require this PL7100 PCB Board your G1-011056-1 RevC board.
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I need the part number for the replacement board for a G1-920029G Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine generator.
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Hi Tim, the PL7100 PCB board would be the correct replacement PCB board for the G1-920029G Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine generator
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i noticed you said it will work w a T15 cell if not using automation. What does that mean?
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This means if you have an indoor controller where you can turn on and off all of your equipment then the board does not integrate with those automation systems. If you have a standard control system where everything is set and controlled out by your pool equipment then this board will work fine.
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no display reading or any lights (nothing shows on) on the main circuit board #GLX-PCB-RITE
checked it and don't see any burn marks
replace it back in 2015 because of lighting and recently have had a lot of thunderstorms here in Florida
I think this is the problem again but not sure this time because of no burn marks noticeable
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Hi Ralph, Yes what you have described is a classic sign that the main board has gone bad. You will not always see scorch marks on the board or they may even be very small. I would suggest this as the part to fix your problem.
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Does this board fit ecomatic esc 36 salt main board if not where can I find the repair or replacement board?
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Nick. This PCB is not compatible with the Ecomatic ESC 36 unit. The Ecomatic ESC 36 PCB - 71187 is no longer available.
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my chlorinator shows everything but level of chlorine. I press diagnostic button but cant get a reading
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The AquaRite Controller can not display the pool's chlorine level. It will only display the pool's temperature and salt level.
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I have a AQ Rite Goldline and when it starts up the Power and Generating lights will be on and the no flow light as well, within 30 seconds or so all 3 lights go out. The display still works all the time. New board needed or the Theminstor? Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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My display board is not showing anything at all. I have been through all the diagnostics for the main PCB and everything seems to be correct (checked all voltages, ohms, continuity, etc. with meter and found correct voltages). is it possible that only the display board is bad? We did have an electric storm late yesterday. Everything was working fine earlier in the day. System is AquaRite with T-9 cell
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Hi, Mike. Yes, if all the points on the PCB checked out then It's possible that only the Display Board went bad. You can replace just the Aqua Rite Display PCB Board - GLX-PCB-DSP (OEM) or PL7101 (Aftermarket).
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My Hayward Aqua Rite salt chlorinator LCD screen works but not the green vertical dot lights unless I jiggle the half circle shaped electrode located just above the 2 cylinder shaped electrodes. The lights stay on for a few seconds then go off. Is it chlorinating? Do I need a new board? Is it doable myself if I do need a new board?
Thank you.
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Hi, Dan. Based on your explanation no chlorine is being generated and you'll need a new PCB. The installation is not hard, you can complete the installation with the info in our How to Install an Aftermarket AquaRite Main PCB.
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I have a G1-011056g-1 A from an aqua rite hayward salt system. Is this board a direct replacement?
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The PL7100 will replace your AquaRIte board as long as you are using a TCELL15 or TCELL9 salt cell.
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I need a circuit board for a Hayward t cell 3. Can you tell me the part number please
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Hi. You will need to provide us with the name or model of the controller that operates the TCELL3 in order to locate the correct PCB.
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Need to replace PCB on my Aqua Rite. Does this board work w/240 volts? How long does shipping take to Florida
Thx
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Wes, The board works on both 230v and 115v. it is preset to 230v. In most cases, shipping on in stock items is typically 1-5 business days.
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The diagnostic box on top of the board isn't working. What do I do
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Barbara, If the display is not working, you either have a bad main pcb board and/or a bad display board. We have a troubleshooting guide that may help pinpoint the issue.
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I just installed a new T-3 cell and have the same problem of no generation after about 3 minutes and Low salt readings. I manually checked the salt and the ppm is actually 4400. But my system is reading 1900. The original PCB is G1-06612F-1 REV A. I see in other posts that the T-3 cell makes the unit unique. Which board to you recommend? ... We are not using a remote control system.
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Anthony, The replacement board would depend on what Hayward/Goldline salt system you have. Also, some systems can be recalibrated.
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Not generating due to low salt. Multiple test at pool store reads more than enough. Is this the part to switch. Thanks
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Joe, Before replacing the board, I would recommend trying to recalibrate the system and having the cell tested first.
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Is this a direct replacement for Goldline Aqua Rite G1-066012c-1 board with T-9 cell?
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Hello Wilson, the PL7100 is the aftermarket replacement, if you would like the from manufacturer replacement that would be Aqua Rite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - GLXPCBRITE
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I have a Hayward with t9 cell. The display will not show the temp.or salt level but shows other things. How do I reset it?
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Hi, Danny. It sounds like the cell could be bad not sending the info back to the controller. I would recommend checking the cell connection and or get the cell test at an authorized Hayward Warranty Center.
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I have an older NatureSoft system with the 1.4 firmware. It is my understanding that I need the 1.5 firmware to use a generic salt cell. Will this board work to upgrade mine? It looks like an easy switch. If not, please let me know which one would work. Thanks!
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Hi Josh, Yes if you change your board out to the PL7100 AquaRite Board then yes you may use a generic salt cell. We put together this Video on How to Replace an AquaRite PCB Board with an AfterMarket Board which you should find helpful when you do your install.
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where can i get the clear plastic pins that hold the board in place?
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Hi, Kim. Inyo no longer carries the Display Standoff Pins - GLX-STDOFFPAK20. Some retailers may have them available.
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I am getting a no flow indicator light. My pool guy says its the circuit board. He said he checked the flow switch. Do you agree with his diagnosis?
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Hi, Jim. I would agree with that diagnosis if the flow switch checked out fine, then the PCB is bad.
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I have an aquarite with a tcell 9... I have power going to the main board and the fuse checks good but the power light or anything else is working. Do you recommend replacing the board??
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Hi, Chris. I would recommend testing the display board using the Step H on page 11 in the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide. The completion of this test will determine if you should replace the Main PCB or Display Board.
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what does it mean by an automated system this replacement board won't work
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Hi. An automated system is a controller used to control all of your pool equipment. The automated controllers use specific main pcb's.
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There are no warning lights on but the power light and generating light only stay on for 10 seconds. They go on and off, is there a problem with a relay?
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Hello, I would recommend going through this troubleshooting guide for you Hayward Aquarite.
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Will this board work if I have a Aquaswitch hooked up to my chlorinator? The part # on PCB board are G1-066012E-1 and G1-011056-1 RevB
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Hi Pete. You can use this board only if the system is wired to a relay and not using also one of the 24VDC Relay Socket. If it is using a 24VDC Relay Socket then you will need the OEM PCB - GLX-PCB-RITE.
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my current PCM board P/N is G1-066012F-1 Rev B. I also have a T-5 Cell. will this board work for that?
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The board that is compatible with the T CELL 5 would be the original Hayward board part number GLXPCBRITE.
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Hi there. I just ordered this product. Does it come with new wires and the 20 amp fuse? Thanks so much.
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Hi, Deb. The wires are not included, you will have to reuse the old ones. It does include the 20 amp fuse and jumpers.
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i have a swim pure plus salt system, will a low salt level reading cause the power and generating light to click on and off
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Hi. A low salt reading will not cause the Power and Generating lights to intermittingly come on/off. There is a problem with the Main PCB.
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I can not get my t-cell 15 deplay on my deplay just the main circuit borad out on 120 power
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Hi, Greg. Instructions for setting the TCELL size are available on page 6 and 7 of the Aquarite PCB Board Installation Manual.
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I have a T-9 cell with #G-1085013J2T board, I think. The salt reading is not correct, about 800 when the actual is about 3000. Is the board probably the problem and should this replacement board correct the problem?
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Hi Gene, Yes the incorrect salt reading is an indication that the board is bad and yes this PL7100 board is the correct replacement for your T-9 cell.
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no flow light comes on for about 30 seconds then goes out, then generating light comes on for about 10 seconds then goes out---no led lights then come on,but information on display is working except salt display number--which board needs to be replaced or what repair or part should i replace---jimmy
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Hi Jimmy, From what you have explained you would need to replace your main AquaRite Board with this PL7100 Board.
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My Aqua Rite salt reading is 2400, in store salt reading is 3100. Have t-15 cell. Display has no t-15 . Tryed to reset salt display ot the new instart salinity value, no luck. But I am generating chiorine. Just can not get Aqua rite to the same salt reading that I have. Have tag on box with number G1-939001D. is this the Cir. Board for me? Check salt & Inspect cell keep flashing.
Thanks Bill T
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Hi Bill T, Yes from everything you have explained these are all signs of the circuit board needing to be replaced. You would require this PL7100 board, normally just the main PCB needs to be replaced and not the display board.
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Where do I find model #
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There should be a label on your salt cell that says T-Cell or GLX-Cell or you can press the diagnostic button on your power supply 7 times to find your model information.
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My control board switches off and on about avery 60 seconds. 45 sec. off and 15 sec. on. I have a request in for a phonecall but have not heard yet.
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Hi Lindsay, This is an indication that your AquaRite Board does need to be replaced and this PL7100 board would be the proper replacement.
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Great board!. I have a Hayward Aqua Rite that is acting up. Chlorine is not being generated. When the box is on super chlorinate the voltage reading is a little high (1.5 volts high) and the amps are acceptable. I turn the system off to have a pool store test the salt cell. The cell is working property. When I reinstalled the cell and turn the box on the salt reading was too high. I turned the box off waited 15 minutes and then it was too low. Last summer I had to replace the Thermister.
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Hi Steve, These are all signs that your main board does need to be replaced with this PL7100 AquaRite Main Board Replacement.
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I have a Hayward Aqua Rite SWG and I want to know how to tell if it is 240 0r 120 Volts. The boards are out and the jumpers were were not place right.
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Hi, Phil. You first will need to know the operating voltage, then you can use our How To Replace an Aqua Rite Main PCB.
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I have a t-15. Voltage is reading 31.6. Amps reading 0.00. Instant salinity is 0. The only LED lit is POWER. The rest are dark
Do I need a new board?
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Hi, Paul. Before replacing the PCB board which could be the problem, get your cell tested at an authorized Hayward Repair Center. If the cell is good, then replace the board.
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we have an aqua rite t-3 what is the correct circuit board for this we bought it in 2012
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Hi. You will need to purchase the AquaRite OEM Main PCB - GLX-PCB-RITE.
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My aquarite salt reading is always between 3200 and 3500 (t 15 cell) but when professionally tested it is 2800. I can not recalibrate to any thing lower than what is displayed. Salt cell was only three years old but I bought a brand new one anyhow and it reads the exact same as the old one. Do I need a new board?
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Hello Janet- Hayward does advise that your salt system, with age, may become uncalibrated compare to controlled salt testing. They say it can but anywhere from 300-500ppm. As long as the system is continuing to generate chlorine they state that this is not an issue, and to go by what your panel is reading.
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Not registering salt levels. Salt level and inspect cell light lite solid. Cell has been cleaned. Salt levels in normal range per professional testing. Chlorine generating light is not lite. What do we need to do?
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Hi, Don. To troubleshoot your system, use the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide to recalibrate the system. You will also need to have the cell tested which can be done at a Hayward repair/warranty center.
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My Hayward Aquarite Goldline appears to be operating fine. Power lite on, Generating lite on, Salt level good (both reading and tested at store), T-Cell(s) good (new and old ones both test good at store; new one installed), but chlorine NOT being generated (reading 0.) All diagnostic readings at control box (amps, etc) read good. T-cell number correct. Why do I have no chlorine?
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Hello Tom- There can be many causes for your low chlorine level. Such as the Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Heavy bather loads and algae. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.
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I dont know if board is bad or cell. With dummy cell in place, I submerged my current cell in water - it bubbles as though it is working. No burnt spots on board. Salt reading is at 800 while pool salt level is 2860 (per test strip). Both Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights on solid. In trying to recalibrate salt reading it will only go to 1100 on display.
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Typically these are signs that the cell is going or is bad. The average life span of one is approximately 3-5 years. Click here to be directed to our diagnosing and troubleshooting guide for the Aquarite. I also would recommend taking your cell to a local pool retailer to have tested. Some retailers have the testers specifically for your series.
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I Installed a new board on our Aqua Rite system. Everything seems to be working fine but the salt reading is showing 3.4. Is this right? Any idea how to fix it?
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Hi, Trevor. The board is reading in Metric, to switch it to Standard see page 6 of the AquaRite PCB Board Installation Manual.
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I have a circuit board p/n G1-066604K-1 and also 1 that is p/n G1-066012G-1rev A I have 230 volts coming to the board but nothing else
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Hi, Tommy. Use the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide to diagnose which part is causing the issue that you're having.
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I have tried to recalibrate our Aquarite and it stays at 0. Is there something else to check to see if we need a replacement board or anything else?
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Hi, Michael. You should have the cell checked. The board will not recalibrate if the cell is not able to communicate with the board.
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how do you reset a aqua rite chlorine generator ?
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Hi, Buford. Recalibration Instructions are available in the AquaRite PCB Board Installation Manual.
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Replaced salt cell, but board still reading 0000 on salt. Had water tested salt is at 3000. No error codes or lights on. Board looks good no burns and power lights work fine, but voltage numbers not kicking up when switching to chlorinate or super chlorinate.. Not generating anything. Could this be the in-line sensor fail or a bad board? thx
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Hi, Christopher. The Main PCB is bad and will need to be replaced.
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Just replaced the Aqua Rite PCB with PL7100. I am still having same issue with Instant Salt 0000 et amps 0.0. Before replacing pbc, I had Leslie to check the cell. They said cell was good ans salt was at 3000. . The display is now sayin " S Lo", the check salt and inspect cells are red. But also, power indicator and Generating light are solid green. No sure what else to check. Here are all my readings: S LO, temp 084, Volt 31.1, amp 0.0, - 0000, AL , r 015, t - 15. Any glues??
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Hi, Maro. Based on the info provided you may also be experiencing insufficient water flow to fill the cell chamber. Here is why. You can have scenarios where you have enough flow to kick on the flow switch but not enough flow to fully fill up the salt cell, in this scenario, you will get 0 ppm reading for salt as the sensor in the cell is not submerged in the water. Two ways to resolve this issue is to increase the flow of your pump if you have a VSP our dual speed pump. The second option would be to rotate the cell to be upside down so the "hump" of the cell is pointing down not up, this puts the sensor on the bottom of the cell so if the cell is only filled halfway with water then the sensor would still be submerged.
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Replaced the salt cell with a generic and our firmware shows r 1.4 and we are aware that the generic only works on firmware 1.5 or higher. Will this main PCB fix this problem?
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Hi, Jennifer. We recommend using the OEM PCB - GLX-PCB-RITE because I'm not sure that aftermarket cell you have.
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Have a Goldline Control PN 066012C-1. Salt reading is 0. Changed cell and get same results. Anything is should do next.
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Hi, Rick. You will need to replace the PCB if the cell amp reading is also 0.
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The plastic pegs on the circuit board that the keyboard control snaps onto broke and were lost. How can I get replacement pegs?
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Steve, The only pegs that are available are the display/standoff pegs part # GLX-STDOFFPAK20
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I have an aqua rite system, the PN on my board is G1-066012G-1 REVA, will this unit replace it correctly?
Hi, Jeffrey. Yes, you can use this PureLine AquaRite Main PCB - PL7100 if you have T-CELL-15 or T-CELL-9 cell.
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Will this work for the AquaTrol controller?
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Good morning, the correct board you will need for the AquaTrol either Pc Board Aquatrol Rj (glxpcbtrolrj) or Main PCB, AquaTrol HP - GLX-PCB-TROL-HP
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Will this fit my system? Its an Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator. The main board has the following: GOLDLINE CONTROLS PN: 132603G, REV:G, OS-1078. The Cell is a T-Cell-15-SWP.
Hi David, Yes this Main PCB Board will fit your AquaRite Salt System with the data you have listed. We also have a Video on How to Install an AquaRite Main PCB Board which you may find helpful when you tackle this project.
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Thanks for the quick response, I have ordered the board. Thanks again.
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Thank you David if you need any help with the install please let us know.
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I have replaced the main board, however, the display went dark. What display board is compatible with the PL7100 GLX-PCB-Rite main board. I guess I should have ordered both at the same time. When I first set it up the display was very dim, I could hardly see it. Then it went out completely.
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Hi David, For your scenario you have described you will need the PL7101 AquaRite Replacement Display Board
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My Goldline Aquarite chlorinator is 15years old, R-1.32. does the revision number matter or will this main board work in my system?
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Hi, Scott. This will work if you have a T-CELL-15 or T-CELL-9 without an automation controller.
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I noticed today that the power light is the only light illuminated on my Aqua Rite chlorine generator. I've never noticed that before. Usually, the "low salt" or "no flow" indicator would be flashing if the "generating" light was off. But again, the only light that is on is the "power" light; all other lights are out. Is there anything else I should check before I replace the main board with your GLX-PCB-RITE? I've attached a photo of the inside door of my unit for your reference. Thanks!
Hi, Eric. Scroll through the diagnostic readings to make sure that the Cell Voltage and Cell Amp is in the proper range using the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide.
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Here are my diagnostic displays: Salt Level: 2600 Temperature: 71 Cell voltage: 30.9 Cell Current: 0.00 Desired Output %: 40P Instant Salinity: -0 Product Name: AL - 5 Software Revision Level: r1.33
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Hi, Eric. You should get the cell tested. If the cell is good, then you will need to replace the Main PCB Board - GLXPCBRITE (OEM) or PL7100 (Geneic).
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Thanks. I’ll get the cell tested today. If I need a new board, will the generic work with software version r1.33? Also, will your generic T-Cell-15 work with r1.33?
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I received my Replacement Main PCB today and started to install it using your video. Unfortunately, the orange and yellow wires were not attached to my old board. Rather, they were attached to the fuse. Should I leave them attached to the fuse, or should I detach them from the fuse and attach them to the replacement board? A photo is attached for reference. Thanks.
Hi, Eric. Those cables will no longer attach to the external fuse since the new board has a built-in fuse. They will need to be connected to the terminal above the fuse.
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My salt cell has finally died and now I need a replacement. I see based upon pool volume, approximately 20,000 gallons, I should get a T-Cell 9. However, I'm assuming I need to update/replace the control panel. I've attached photos of the cell and control box. Can I just replace the circuit board, or do I need a completely new box?
Hi Tom, we would actually suggest staying with the T-Cell-15 as the cell will not work as hard as the T-Cell-9 meaning you get much longer life out of the T-Cell-15. Salt cells are based on hours of use and normally you can expect 7,000 hrs. of life from a cell, so if you use a T-Cell-9 you will have to run it for much longer periods then the T-Cell-15 meaning the T-Cell-9 will fail quicker. My suggestion would be to keep your same PCB Board and go with this PL7106 PureLine Salt Cell Replacement for the AquaRite T-Cell-15
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recently purchased PCB board from Inyo, believe ours may have been hit by lightning per comments on site.
after replacing board, recalibrating per manual, realized cell may be bad, replaced also. recalibrated again. salt averages still not correct, not showing volts or amps. when replacing board, noticed board in our aquarite may not be the original, wondering if we have purchased the wrong board? pic attached. appreciate any insight, thanks
Hi, Tony. The correct PCB was ordered for your system, I will need to know what size Turbo Cell to make sure it's compatible.
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I just ordered and received this replacement part today. I had previously verified that I had 240 volts. I hooked this up and I still do not get a power indication on the display board. Is the display board, or possibly the transformer bad?
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Hi. Please confirm that you've installed the Jumpers which is Step 19 of our How to Install an Aftermarket AquaRite Main PCB guide. If the jumpers are installed and you've confirmed that the board is getting power, more troubleshooting will need to be done. You the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide pages 31-36.
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My display is reading varying numbers with regards to salinity. Usually starts high then goes low even though Salinity is actually high. I took the salt cell to the pool store and they said it was still producing chlorine. The lights for power turn on. And if I am able to adjust the salinity number by pushing switch to superchlorinate when it first kicks on it will say that it is producing Chlorine. I have a backup salt cell and it does the same thing. Does this sound like it is the board?
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Hi Roger, Yes this does sound like a bad Main PCB Board. We would suggest replacing your main board.
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I have an aqua trol rj version r1.40. I would like to update it so I can purchase a larger capacity cell. My current cell (t-5) only lasted 2 years and my inground pool is about 18,000 gallons. Would I be able to use this board to upgrade my unit? Would that potentially help my cell last longer? Thanks.
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Hi Gus, Unfortunately, this PCB is not compatible with AquaTrol and the T-5 would be the largest cell you can use on an AquaTrol. Normally Aqua Trols are used specifically for Above Ground Pools and not inground pools. I would suggest the Crystal Pure 40,000 Gallon Salt System and you would get much longer life out of your cells.
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Have the swim pure plus salt chlorination system and need to replace the boards. The main is stamped with G1-066012G-1 and has a sticker on it with the model# G1-011056G-1A. What board model do I need and display board also?
Hi Dale, this PL7100 PCB Board would be the correct replacement board for your swim pure plus salt chlorination system. We would also suggest replacing your display board with the PL7101 AquaRite Replacement Display Board.
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I have an Aqua Rite control system and a t-9 cell. The % output function is erratic. Example, if the control % knob is set to 20% the LCD may change to 80% within a few seconds. Is this a sign of a bad board?
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Hi, Jim. We have seen this issue before with the Display Board being the issue.
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Hi-
System stopped generating and display was stuck on 2600, even with switching to off
These are the original Main & Display boards on a 17 yr old system-
Main board PN: 066012B-1 Rev-B
Display PN:
132604 Rev- F
What new boards do I need?
Hi, John. Yo will need the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITE and AquaRite Display PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-DSP.
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We suspect the previous owners replaced the salt cell with an incorrect size...we come along and replace with the same cell that's installed, the T-15, but it's burned out quickly both times we replaced it. We think the board isn't compatible. We have a T-15 cell, and our board is PN 132603G. The board software revision shows r1.10
In ground pool, about 20,000 gallons, Aquarite Goldline board and Hayward Tcell 15.
Should we replace with this other board?
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Hi Beth, REV 1.1 is a quite old board. We would suggest upgrading to a new PL7100 PureLine Board for the AquaRite.
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We just purchased a house with an in-ground pool which we just opened. When I power up system (120V) the no flow light flashes as described but no other LEDs are on including Power. I just serviced the cell and it was clean with no build-up. After the no-flow light quits flashing the Generating & Inspect lights briefly illuminate then turn off. The display is reading 0(ppm), Temp @ 67*F, 0.0V, 0.00A, 81%, - 0 (ppm), AL-0, r 1.58, t-15. The Super Chlorinate light does not turn on w/ switch.
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Hi Jason, What you have described is an idication that your main PCB board has gone bad. We would suggest replacing your AquaRite Main PCB with the PL7100 PureLine AquaRite Main PCB listed on this page.
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My control panel will not turn off the filter. The timers will not turn off the filter either; however, the timers will turn on/off the cleaner at the set times. Do I need to replace the black display unit or just the main board inside?
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Hi Cindy, The AquaRite normally doesn't turn your pump on and off could you confirm that you have an AquaRite and not a ProLogic or AquaLogic? Could you send a few photos of your system? To send photos click on the reply link below to upload your photos.
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I’m sorry, it is Aqua Logic I think. I’ll send pic
Hi Cindy, Thank you for that information and the photo, that was quite helpful. Most likely you will need to replace your main PCB and you will need this AquaLogic Main PCB (Not the AquaRite PCB listed on this page) however you might want to have an electrician come out to confirm as you may have other things going on.
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Morning. I have an Aquarite t-9. I have no lights or display. I have no output voltage from main board to display board. This said, I know I have to replace the main board. Question is should I also replace the DSP, or is there a way for me to verify it works?
Thanks
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Hi Scott, We would strongly encourage replacing your Display Board at the same time, as many times the old board fails or is weakend when the main PCB fails. You would need the PL7101 PureLine AquaRite Display Board.
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I have replaced my board on my Goldline unit, used to read version r1.4, now reads r8.80. Is this correct or okay? Receiving a high salt reading, checked by my supplier to be at 4000.
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Gary, we apologize for the inconvenience, however, we have been unable to obtain an answer from the manufacturer to your question. We suggest trying to give them a call and speak to them directly regarding this issue.
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I have a Goldline Controls G1-06604F-1
When the switch is in the off position the power light is on. When I move the switch to Auto both the power and generating light stay light for a few seconds and then they both go off. If I move the switch back to off the power light will come back on.
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Hi Robin, This sounds like a bad main PCB and we would recommend replacing your main PCB. Can you confirm that you have a Hayward/Goldline Controls AquaRite and not an AquaTrol, ProLogic or AquaLogic? If you have the AquaRite then this is the board you will require.
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I currently have an Aqua Rite Gold Line Controller with the following PCB:
Hayward Ind. (C) 2012 PN G1-066012F-1RevA
G1-011056-1 Rev C
What Is a replacement PCB?
Hi Fred, The PL7100 PureLine AquaRite Replacement PCB on this page would be the correct replacement board for your AquaRite. We also find that it is a good time to replace your AquaRite Display Board when you replace the main PCB as many times they fail in tandem with each other.
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How do I know which circuit board I need for my system
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Hi Harry, Do you have an AquaRite? If so then repeatedly press the diagnostics button on your power supply until the Rev # displays if it 1.5 or higher then this PL7100 Board is what you will need. I believe you press the diagnostic button 7 times.
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I have a G1-011056-1 RevB PCB and need to replace it - what is the replacement part I need please
Randy, the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITE would be the OEM replacement for your G1-011056-1 RevB PCB. The AquaRite Replacement Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - PL7100 is an aftermarket unit, and is also compatible with your G1-011056-1 RevB PCB.
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I have a Hayward Goldline G1-066012F-1 Rev A Board. What is my replacement board? Also do you have the Goldline Controls card replacement P/N: G1-066604K-1?
Thanks,
Terry
John, there are two options to replace your existing board, P/N G1-066012F-1 Rev A. The aftermarket Pureline AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - PL7100 or the OEM AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITE
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I've got a salt system, Turbo Cell Hayward and a Goldline Control system with control board PN 066012B-1
I think the salt cell and/or the control board is bad. Check salt and check cell stays on. Isn't producing enough salt and now it's showing salt reading of zero, even though it was about 2800 just a few days ago.
The entire system is almost 15 years old, so I can't complain. I'm thinking of replacing the circuit board and salt cell. Is this the circuit board I'd install in my control box
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Hello, What is the actual salt level in the pool? When you get it tested?
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I do have a Hayward aquarite salt system and I do need a GLX-PCB main board. I will also need the 8 plastic clips 4 for mounting the main and the 4 for mounting the display to the main. It appears in your displayed picture that your replacement board comes with the 8 mounting plastic clips. Is that correct???
Thank you
Terry
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Hi Terry, Yes the 8 plastic clips are included with our AquaRite replacement PCB.
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My Hayward aqua rite salt generator control box, display is blank. All lights are on. Would this be the control board?
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The PCB board could be the cause of that, but it also might be a bad display board. To check if it is the PCB board is bad, I would recommend monitoring your pool to see if chlorine is being produced. If it is, then you will know that it is just the display is bad. If it is not producing chlorine, then the PCB board will need to be replaced.
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my unit is showing no display, nothing, should this take care of it
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Hi, Henry. Replacing the PCB could resolve the issue. However, that does not eliminate the display board. You can use the AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide to diagnose and resolve the issue.
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Hi
I have a Aqua Rite I believe the PCB is bad . It is a rev 1.4 will this board work?
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The Pureline AquaRite replacement board is suitable to replace that board revision, as long as your AquaRite is not connected to a seperate automation system. In those exceptions, you will need to purchase the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITEAftermarket AquaRite Main PC Board (Replaces GLX-PCB-RITE)
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My salt chlorinator will not generate and the display will not give me the cell selection option. I have attached a picture of my PCM. What do you suggest? I have two t-15 cells and the control will not allow cell selection option on either one.
Hi, Al Loper. It appears that the PCB is fried and will need to be replaced. Reference the compatibility info in the product details to determine if this aftermarket is compatible.
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I recently bought this replacement board it doesn't have the lug for a in box power outlet or a place for the timer is this board the same ? and can I use it I don't ever use the timer and I have a plug for my pump . also my system is a return jet mounted system if this makes a difference
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Can you please provide the model number and the serial number of the Aquarite unit you are working with?
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I have an older aqua rite with a t-15 turbo cell.
the current software version is R1.13 and I want to upgrade.
will this replacement main PCB (GLX-PCB-Rite) replace my current main PCB with upgraded software revision so I can use alternate market salt generators?
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Yes, the PL7100 PureLine AquaRite Replacement Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) will be compatible with your existing Aqaurite PCB board.
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I just replaced my T15 cell but generating low chlorine (1 ppm, 100% seeting). The controller lights are correct (except Inspect Cell yellow appears dimly lit). The controller parameters read within the specified range. The controller has r1.31 software. Is there any reason to believe a new PCB/software will help and what version software does it have? Turns out the fine print on the after-market T-15 cell I purchased and installed says version 1.5 and higher software needs to be used.
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Yes, the aftermarket PART # PL7106 requires the R1.5 AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITE for use without the current Printed Circuit Board for the salt system you will experience issues or failure to work.
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If I replace the main board in Aqua Rite system with your board will I still be able to see the Aqua Rite on my remote Aqua Link panel? I've had trouble with this with another vendor! It worked fine but could not control generator from remote panel. Thanks!
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Hi, Richard. Unfortunately, you will not, this Pureline Main PCB does not have that feature. You will have to use the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITE.
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I ORDERED A CONTROL BOX SEVERAL YEARS AGO AND NOW THE BOX IS NOT READING CORRECTLY AFTER TESTING THE WATER AT THE POOL STORE. DO I NEED A REPLACEMENT PART?
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Hi. The issue could be the Main PCB - GLX-PCB-RITE or the Turbo Cell. The cell can be tested at an authorized repair or warranty center to make sure it's working fine. If it is then the Main PCB will need to be replaced.
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I have a Mineral Springs MS10 unit. My power light doesn't come on, and I have both low voltage and 0.00 amps. Before I order the main board, I want to make sure this is correct. Can you please help? Thanks!
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Hi, Scott. Low cell volts and amps can be caused by a faulty Main PCB.
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I was looking to order a replacement board as mine has stopped working, it will show the salt level but does not generate or stay on generation. Is this the correct replacement board for G1-011056-1 REVC?
Hi Jonathon,Yes the Pureline AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - PL7100 would be the correct replacement board for the part # G1-011056-1.
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Installed the board but it doesn't seem to talk 100% to the control board that fits on top of it -- not converting from Celsius to Fahrenheit for instance, or for the salt reading. I can't find documentation that covers all of the functions/displays of the new board. It is not OEM and I would like to have a detailed description of each function and its display from the manufacturer if possible.
Thanks,
Geoff
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Hi, Geoffrey. A detailed description of each function and its display is available in the Pureline AquaRite PCB Board Installation Manual.
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I have a 16 year old Aqua Logic AQL-PS-4 Controller that Displays Very Low Salt-Cell is OFF, with Store Water Test reading at 3200 PPM. Replaced T-15 Cell Last week. Is the Main Board gone and if so what is the replacement #?
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Hi, George. You can check to confirm that the system is set to the correct cell size and try to calibrate the instant salt level. If these have been done, replace the Main PCB - GLXPCBMAIN.
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I have followed your instructions on how to change the units of measurement on my Aqua Rite SCG. Unfortunately, when I do this, it only changes the temperature between Fahrenheit and Celsius. It does not change the salt level, which remains in Metric units. I cannot get the salt level to read U.S. standard. I'm using an InyoPools after market main board and display. The software version is "r015." Any suggestions?
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Hi, Eric. If you're following the instructions on page 6 of the Pureline AquaRite PCB Board Installation Manual, then the issue is the Board.
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I have a Hayward Aqua Trol AL-7 that is approximately 8 years old. Is this the correct replacement circuit board?
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I have the G1-066012C-1 board. WIll Pureline Aquarite PCB work for me.
Best regards,
Bjorn
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Yes, the Pureline AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) is compatible with your board. If you have the T-CELL-5 or T-CELL-3 or an automation system (AquaLink, AquaLogic, ProLogic, IntelliTouch and EasyTouch), then we suggest the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITE. This board will not work with older model salt systems.
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I have a Goldline PN 066012B-1 and need a replacement. You list a 066012E-1, which is only one letter off, but that could be a big deal. Do you have the replacement board for my PCB?
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The Pureline AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - PL7100 will work as a replacement for your Goldline PN 066012B-1. Luckily, in this case, that one digit is not that significant.
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I am getting an LCD readout from my PL7100 "SLo" or "5Lo". What does that mean?
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Hi, Bruce. That error code will read out if the cell amps are low due to dirty cell, operating a variable speed pump that has sufficient flow to activate the flow switch but not allowing the cell to be completely filled with water.
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I have a Hayward H-40 system that was installed in 2006. Currently, the generating light is flashing, the check salt light is on (not flashing), and the inspect cell light is on (not flashing). The system readout shows "Hot" without the t being fully crossed. The system is correct on the salt level and all tests of the water show within normal limits. Inside the door, it shows 5A0512-1021407. On the board, I located the number G1-015005-40. New board needed? Which one. Thx.
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Ralph, yes the Pureline AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - PL7100 will work as a replacement for your existing G1-015005-40 mainboard.
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I forgot to add that the system has a T-5. Can I still use the PL7100? Many thanks for the help.
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Ralph, This Pureline - PL7100 is NOT compatible with the T-5 cell. You will need to replace it with the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITE.
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My old circuit board was a Goldline Controls PN: 066012C-1 REV: C, I think it finally gave up. I replaced it with an Aquarite 5A0608-1048175. It is supposed to run a Blue Works T-15 salt cell. I had it replaced under warranty twice
With pump not running it usually reads HOT with Generating, Inspect Cell, and Check Salt all flashing. I often have to push the reset button and recalibrate the salt level to make it works again, until the next pump cycle.
Will the PL7100 work for me?
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LED is not showing anything. Not lighting up at all. Is my salt system working? Checked fuse it appears ok but replaced it anyway. Please advise asap. Thank you
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Hi, Deniser. Make sure that you've installed the jumpers that are included for the appropriate voltage.
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Will this unit work with a Pureline PL7703? I bought this unit new and it has a fried capacitor at the bottom left position on the board. Seems like the simplest way to repair it would be to replace the board.
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You would actually require this PL7750 PureLine Crystal Pure Main PCB
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Should I order the board for the controls as well? I have attached some photos. the power was originally connected incorrectly and I would guess that is why the component is fried. This is a new unit and we would be using it as is, if it worked. I have attached photos of the original components.
Yes we would also suggest the PL7751 Digital Display Board as well.
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Will this replace the Swimpure Plus PC Board?
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You will actually need this GLXPCBRITE Main PCB Board from Hayward
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which circuit board is the right one to replace mine; hayward aqua rite goldline pn 066012c-1
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Hi Helga, the correct PCB board for your part number 066012c-1 is the GLXPCBRITE.
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I’ve replaced the thermistor a couple of times. The last time was July 2020. It just went out again. I’m not sure I soldered it securely enough in July 2020. Is there any other well-known reason they would go out so soon? I assume surges could cause problems, but is there anything else that immediately comes to mind?
Hi Chris, We have found that the thermister is a weak point on the Aqua Rite PCB board and as you said this is typically from surges or lightning. We have found that after a few times repairing the thermister then eventually you will need to purchase a new AquaRite Main PCB Board as the thermister repair seems to be a temporary repair.
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I need a replacement for the following Part. Goldline Controls PN: 066012A REV: A. Is your replacement board compatible?
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Eric,This PL7100 is the generic version of the AquaRite mainboard. It is the replacement for the 066012A.
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I need a replacement circuit board for goldline controls PN: 066008G-1 REV: G. Can you please assist in finding the correct replacement ?
Thank you
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Hello Dale. The Pureline AquaRite Main PCB will replace your part # 066008G-1.
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I have a aqua rite G1-011056B
lights on the display reads solid check salt and inspect cell
I replaced t-15 cell and no change
salt readings are 900 and 1100 I recalibrated to read 3000 and it ran for 8 hrs
when it was time to start again it was back to the same solid check salt and inspect cell.
cell does produce chlorine for the full running cycle
Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will flash together when salt level is between 2500-2600ppm. Chlorine is still being produced. Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will be ON when salt level is 2300ppm or less. Chlorine production is halted. Inspect Cell LED will flash by itself when 500 operational hour countdown timer has expired. Requires manual reset. To manually reset the Inspect Cell LED, press and hold the Diagnostics button until LED goes out (approximately 3 to 5 seconds) NOTE: Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will also be ON if the control is set for the wrong Turbo Cell type or the cell is unplugged.
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I have an AquaRite Goldline T-9 salt cell generator which consistently shows "inspect cell." We have replaced the cell yet the generator continues to show "inspect cell." Salt level indication is not correct. Would your PL 1700 PCB possibly correct this problem? My pool is 22,000 gallons, converted to saltwater approximately 5-7 years ago. Thank you!
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Hello Larry. Attached please find a link to the Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual. This Manual details diagnostic procedures covering a wide range of troubleshooting resolutions. Please check the cell type configuration of the Main PCB and that it corresponds to the T-9 installed (page 4). Improper configuration can result in improper salinity readings and a constant Check Cell light illumination. Diagnostics Manual
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In my AquaRite system
The display appears to be on, but the LED indicator lights are all off.
I added 40 lbs of salt 3 days ago, but the Chlorine level in the pool is Zero.
The display shows a salt level of 2800, but it has not changed, even after I super chlorinated.
I replaced the board with a refurbished board in August 2018
I cleaned the Chlorinator, and nothing changed.
Is this a problem with the Board, or with the chlorinator.
Are there different boards, or are they the same.
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Hello Gary. From the Information provided, it appears that the issue is with the Main PCB and not the chlorine generating cell. Typically, the Display Board, when malfunctioning, does not exhibit any LCD read-out or LED indicator lights. The Hayward Main PCB part number is GLX-PCB-RITE. There is only one type of board but different revisions based on the year of manufacture. Attached please find the Diagnostics Manual for the Hayward Salt System. Pages 13-17 pertain to the scenario you describe. Diagnostics Manual
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what board do i need to get to replace this one as the display works fine but the power and generating lights go off after a few minutes
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Hello Richard. The Pureline AquaRite Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) - PL7100 is an aftermarket replacement for the Hayward Main PCB G1-0660012E-1. The Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE is the OEM replacement for the Hayward Main PCB G1-0660012E-1.
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I think I need a new PC board for Hayward Goldline salt system Volts constantly go up & down When volts drop below 17 Green lights all go off When volts go back up to 17 power light comes back on Amps read 0 What board do I need? Dave R
Hello David. Attached please find the Hayward Troubleshooting Guide for the Goldline Salt System. Please note Section 4, pages 31 - 36. If after performing these diagnostic steps it is determined that a replacement Main PCB is necessary, the Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE would be the replacement. Attached please find the listing of replacement parts for the Hayward SWG System. Hayward / Goldline AquaRite
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Will this board work with a platinum edition salt cell as shown in the attached photo?
Hello, I would not recommend using the Pureline board as there are issues with communication between different aftermarket boards and cells. In other words, Pureline cells are meant to communicate with Pureline and Hayward boards, and vice-versa, but problems crop up when two different aftermarket products try and communicate with one another.
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