Part # 4664-05
Manufacturer Code 25357-750-000
Dimensions 17" L x 14" W x 4.5" D
Manifold, Bottom Collector - CX3000C Replaced by CMP25357750000
Is there a step by step pdf for replacing the manidold, bottom collector (CX3000C)? I am trying to determine the simplicity or complexity of doing myself.
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Hi Dale, I ran across this Youtube Video on How to Replace a Hayward Bottom Collector Manifold, which you should find to be helpful on replacing this part..
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I have a C 5025 Haward filter system on my 40' pool.
Recently I had a Mustard Algea problem. I handled the chemical addatives and was able to eleminate the algea. I vaquamed the pool floor and removed all the algea material. However, i noticed that some of the algea matter returned in the water back flow to the pool, and when the filter was turned off, it settled on the pool floor and formed a complete coating.
Any idea what has gone wrong?
Thank you.
N.A.T.
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Hi Norbert, The cartridges could be old allowing debris to pass straight through, the manifold could be broken or the air tube strainer could have a hole. Any one of these can allow debris to go back into the pool.
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I have an old Hayward C4520BHMB filter. I need to find a replacement part for the bottom collector piece. Will the Manifold, Bottom Collector (cx3000c) be compatible with my filter housing? Thanks! Said H
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How do you remove the old bottom manifold on a Hayward C 3000 cartridge pool filter and replace the same.?
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Hi, Cecil. To remove the bottom manifold, you will have to remove the lower Pipe Assembly.
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1 to 2 hrs
Screwdriver, Socket Set, Adjustable Wrench, 24" pipe wrench (only if very stuck connections)
*My final time estimate below is for if you have all tools and lubricants necessary on-hand* First off, this was my first time taking apart the filter casing entirely and I suspect no one ever had never in 20 years of this pool's operation. A YouTube video titled "Hayward Pool Filter Bottom Collector Manifold Replacement" helped me get started. I shut off the pump at the power switch, drained the filter casing from the plug at the back, and got off the filter cover with no problem only needing a 1/2" socket to release the ring around the middle. I was replacing the filters as well so I lifted them out and then began separating the bottom of the filter casing from the intake and return lines. It is not physically possible to install the new manifold without removing the lower gasket and interior 90 degree downangled pipe. I was able to turn the exterior nuts with the oil filter wrench suggested in the referenced video, and even removed the upper gasket with a lot of effort. However, I needed a 24" pipe wrench, plumbers megatape, and a bit of leverage because the lower gasket was stuck so tight. Getting that off, I saw that grit had gotten in every groove of the gasket's threading. I washed that out thoroughly, separated the interior pipe from the old manifold (break the manifold) greased the interior pipe's o-ring with silicone lubricant and fit it to the new manifold. You'll have to adjust how far the interior pipe is insert into the manifold to match it with where the gasket will fit back into the casing. Once that's done, thread the lower gasket back in, match the interior intake pipe to the upper hole, thread that gasket in. Don't forget the air line and tiny screw to secure it! Also, don't neglect to lube up the gasket's exterior o-rings before reinserting those into the intake and return lines. Thread the exterior nuts back on securely, insert the cartridges into the new manifold, CAREFULLY slide the top manifold into the cartridges so you don't crack the new bottom manifold. Oil the casing's o-ring, put the casing lid back in, resecure the outer ring, reinsert the rear plug. Follow your pump's restart instructions! Congrats on your new debris free filter system!
