1. Home
  2. How To Guides
  3. How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

WRITTEN BY: 

  3.33 out of 5 stars on 223 ratings
(Click on a star to add your rating)

This guide will explain how to replace your inground pool pump motor. We will go step by step through disassembling your pool pump, discarding the old motor, repairing the new motor, its installation, and how to wire it.

If you have any questions about finding the correct replacement motor for your in-ground pool pump, read our guide on how to do so: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Note: Please read the complete guide before starting your installation.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor



Comments

Email

Print

Steps

Video

Step by Step

Top

Step 1

Select the Correct Replacement Motor - Find the Model (MOD), Catalog (CAT), or Part (P/N) on your old motor’s information tag and enter it into Inyo’s product search. 

If you cannot find the necessary information or want more information on identifying the correct replacement pool pump motor, read our guide: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 2

Select Replacement Shaft Seal or GOKIT - When replacing a pool pump motor, always replace the shaft seal; this seal is the last line of defense between the surging water in your pump housing and your brand new motor. 

To find the correct replacement shaft seal, you’ll need to identify the make and model of your pump housing. The pump’s model number or model should be listed on one of the pump housing stickers.

GOKITs (Gasket/O-Ring Kits) includes the shaft seal and major gaskets and seals for your specific pump housing. If your pump is older, it may be good to replace all seals while the pump is disassembled to ensure a watertight installation.

If you need help identifying your pump housing: Read our guide: How To Identify Your Pump Manufacturer

Related Articles - How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal 

Click Here to Find Your Pump's GOKIT

Step 3

Shut off Power to the Pump - Shut down the pump’s power source by flipping its breaker.

Step 4

Disconnect Bonding Wire - Unscrew the bonding wire lug to remove it from the motor.

Step 5

Remove Motor From Housing - Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the 6 to 8 (pump model specific) bolts from the pump seal plate, then pull the motor assembly away from the housing.

Step 6

Remove Motor Endcap - Use a screwdriver to loosen the motor endcap’s two screws. Place the endcap to the side after it’s removed.

Step 7

Short the Capacitor - The capacitor may store residual current, making the motor turn while we’re working. To prevent this misfire, using the tip of an insulated-handle screwdriver to both of the capacitor terminals leads to the discharge of the capacitor—also, Plac is a protective material or material between your face to prevent injury from sparks.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 8

Note Old Motor Wiring and Voltage Setting - Before disconnecting any terminal wires, note or take a picture of the motor’s terminal board. This will help ensure we set the correct voltage and wiring for the new motor installation.

Step 9

Disconnect Terminal Board Wires - Disconnect all hot, neutral, and ground wires from the terminal board.

These will be the wires coming into the motor from the conduit hole.

Step 10

Pull Wires - Pull the disconnected wires out of the motor through the conduit adapter.

Step 11

Remove Conduit Elbow - Unscrew the conduit adapter elbow from the old motor; place the adapter to the side for reuse on the new motor.

Step 12

Remove Diffuser - Remove the diffuser from the end of the motor assembly. Some pump models like the Hayward Super II use fins to stabilize the diffuser in the seal plate; this design allows you to pull the diffuser without tools. Other models like the Jandy Stealth uses screws to secure the diffuser to the seal plate; these will need to be removed first.

Step 13

Remove Impeller Wear Ring - Pull off the impeller’s wear ring.

Note: This step does not apply to all pump designs; not all pumps are designed with a wear ring.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 14

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Use a 9/16" wrench or a flathead screwdriver to stabilize the shaft.

Step 15

Remove Impeller Screw (If Necessary) - If your impeller uses an impeller screw, use a screwdriver to remove it. Not all impeller designs use an impeller lock screw like the impeller ring. Check your pump model’s parts listing before, or check for a screw during installation.

Note: The impeller lock screw is left-hand threaded (reverse thread). That is why you turn it clockwise to remove it.

Related Articles - Do I Need an Impeller Lock Screw?

Step 16

Unscrew Impeller from the Motor Shaft - While the motor shaft is stabilized, unscrew the impeller counter-clockwise.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 17

Remove the Seal plate (Motor Mounts to a Separate Mounting Plate) - Depending on the pump design, the seal plate may pull off easily after the impeller is removed because there’s a separate motor mount plate that backs the seal plate.

Step 18

Remove Seal Plate (Motor Mounts Directly to Seal Plate) - For models that use the seal plate as a mounting bracket, you will need to remove the four mounting bolts from the backside of the seal plate.

Step 19

Remove the New Motor’s Endcap - Re-screw the endcap screw on the new motor, and set the endcap screws aside for later re-installation.

Step 20

Install Motor Mounting Bracket or Seal Plate (Depending on Pump Design) - Use the four motor mount screws to reattach the seal plate or motor mount to the face of the motor.

The top of the motor mounting plate for this pump is labeled "TOP"—alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 21

Place the Plate Over the Mount Mount (Depending on Pump Design) - If your seal plate is separate from your motor mounting bracket, set it in place now.

Step 22

Remove Old Shaft Seal - Remove the old shaft seal from the old seal plate and impeller steam. Ensure to remove all bits of the old shaft seal, ensuring a snug fit of the new seal.

Note: There are two types of shaft seals used in modern pool pump design; one has the white ceramic side sit in the seal plate, and the spring-loaded side sits on the stem of the impeller. They are shown In Steps 23 & 25. The other standard design is vice versa; the white ceramic sits in an impeller cup around the impeller stem, while the spring-side sits in the seal plate. They are shown In Steps 24 & 26.

Refer to your owner’s manual or the corresponding pars schematic on our Inyo's Pool Pump Parts Finder

Step 23

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic in Seal Plate - Use a clean cloth to press the white ceramic side into the seal plate. First, make sure the Shaft seal is completely seated in the seal plate. Next, use a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt or finger grease that may have marked the smooth ring’s face.

Step 24

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic on impeller Stem - With a clean cloth, press the ceramic shaft seal into the impeller with the white ceramic side facing up.

Step 25

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side on Impeller - Slide the new shaft seal's spring-loaded side onto the impeller stem.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 26

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side Seal Plate -  Place a 1" PVC coupler over the seal and lightly hammer the seal into the plate. Check the front and back of the plate to ensure the seal is flush with the plate.

Tip: Apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the metal cup base of the spring-side piece. This will ensure the shaft seal stays secure in the seal plate during installation.

Step 27

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Stabilize the motor shaft with a 9/16” wrench.

Step 28

Install impeller - Hand-tighten impeller onto the end of the motor shaft.

Step 29

Re-Install Impeller Lock Screw (If Necessary) - Screw in the impeller lock screw if your pump requires one.

Step 30

Re-Install Impeller Ring (If Necessary) - Install the old impeller lock screw into the new impeller. Remember, this screw is a reverse thread “Lefty-Tighty.”

Step 31

Re-Install Diffuser - Place the diffuser over the impeller, and align the tabs (or screw holes) of the diffuser into the holes of the seal plate. Install diffuser screws (model dependent.)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 32

Install Diffuser O-Ring - Apply Teflon lube to the new diffuser o-ring, then slide it into place.

Step 33

Install Housing Gasket - Lube the housing gasket with either Teflon or silicone, then install it into the seal plate’s gasket groove.

Step 34

Mount Motor Assembly to Housing - Slid the motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 35

Install Pump Housing Bolts - Re-attach the 6 to 8  bolts to secure the motor assembly to the pump housing. The number of bolts varies depending on the model.

Step 36

Attach Conduit Adapter - Screw on the original conduit adapter to the new motor.

Step 37

Connect Wires to Terminal Board - Check your new motor’s wiring diagram to confirm wire orientations.

In this example, we had a single-speed motor running on 230v. We connected the Black hot line to L1, the Red hot line to L2, and the green ground line to the green screw.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 38

Attach Motor’s Endcap - install the motor’s endcap using two screws.

Step 39

Prime the pump - Use a hose to fill the strainer housing with water, then close the pump lid.

Related Articles - How To Prime a Pool Pump, How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime

Step 40

Turn on the Pump - Switch on the pump’s breaker, to restore power.


Comments

Top
Add a Comment
(81 to 120 of 215)

 Posted: 6/7/2018 

Just installed a new Hayward motor. Runs fine by itself then when it is hooked to the rest of the pump and bolted in and does not run.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/11/2018 

Hello Cas - It would be best to have a qualified electrician check the job. It seems like a significant amount of leakage current to trip the breaker, unless it is a GFCI. Check to see if the light and pump motor are on the same circuit, and if the circuit has a GFCI. Does it trip immediately, or just when the light is on? Is the 20 amp breaker sufficient for the motor? The electrician should also have a device to check to see if there is leakage current from the motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/11/2018 

The pump motor I just purchased runs perfect as long as I have the bonding wire disconnected, as soon as I connect the bonding wire it trips the breaker,, this bonding wire runs from the pool light to a bounding rod that's in the ground beside the pump motor and then to the motor itself,, the motor is on a double pole 20 amp breaker, that keeps tripping out ,, any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/16/2018 

Hello Hui - There may be a wrench available for your pump lid. What is the make and model of your pump?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/16/2018 

Hi, after replacing the motor, I try to run the system, but the water does not flow. I see that there is no water in the pump housing yet. So I try to open the lid strainer pot so that I can fill the pump housing with water. However, my lid strainer pot is extremely hard to open. I tried very hard with my hand but it can't be opened. I'm wondering if what I'm thinking and doing is correct? Any suggestions?
 Reply

 Posted: 1/25/2018 

b-chex - About all I can suggest is to slide a long cold chisel under the motor to the screw to shear it off.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/23/2018 

I am attempting to replace my spa motor and wet end, but I've hit a snag. I can't get the existing motor unbolted from the floor of the spa enclosure. The four bolts that secure the motor's base down to the floor are completely rusted. I was able to break free the two bolts closest to the opening of the enclosure, but there is no room to work (or even see what is going on) behind the motor. Any tips on how to proceed with getting my old motor out?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/25/2017 

FloridaDave - If your motor is making a loud screeching noise, its bearing may be going and it may be time for a new motor. However, for low water flow, check our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System" before you buy a new motor. Step 6, Clogged Impeller, is a common problem and is easy to fix.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/23/2017 

I have a question or maybe two. My pump is getting noisy and it only about 5 years old(when motor was last replaced) and the 'push' with a clean filter is minimal compared to a few years ago. Would this indicate a needed motor replacement? Also, for the longest time there has been air coming out of the pool returns but no bubbles in the skimmer. Could this be a bad seal between pump and motor or should I look further? All the retail places I ask want to sell me a variable speed pump instead of answers.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/2/2017 

Do you guys have a Facebook page? If not, you should. Just stopped by to say that your website is probably the single most helpful website on pools and pool maintenance that I have come across. Keep up the excellent work!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/23/2017 

Jakoe - Thank you for your comments and we are sorry for our confusion. We will take another look at this guide and try to incorporate your comments. Also, you were correct. The GOKIT for a Hayward MaxFlo is GOKIT1.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/22/2017 

PLEASE provide better instructions! I just changed out my motor and seals (GoKit1) on a Hayward MaxFlo. I HOPE it's ok? Problem is I had a broken washer laying inside the housing and the washer that came with the pump was a much smaller diameter. The instructions also need to include replacing the seal kit. I was flipping back and forth between instructions. Mark the parts and include diagram of how they fit. When I was carrying the pump in the house a old seal fell off, so I wasn't sure which side faced which direction. Though the seal that came with the GoKit looked very different than the one that was on pump and it didn't matter with the new seal. If looks different than older versions, say so!!! I debated whether or not I needed to run to the pool store, and decided to just use the one with the kit. Well, I touched the one seal (instructions called it a bearing? - not the ceramic one.) This one, too, looked different from the one that was on my pump. I only lubed the one seal per the instructions (I lubed the housing gasket, though no instructions), though you should state "DO NOT LUBE". Still not sure if I was supposed to or not. All-in-all I am running a new motor with no leaks, though pump sounds a tad rough when it first starts up, just for a second. Include better photos and make them model specific! Instructions didn't even mention the housing seal! Had to figure that one out myself. As a 56 yr. old female doing this for the first time, it would have been very easy if instructions and images were better and if took into account old broken parts that you don't know how they went on. Probably took me 2-3 hours, mainly because I was hunting for the right tools and re-reading instructions and thinking about if I should use the seals that looked different from the originals.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/24/2017 

Lackey - If you actually measured the voltage at the pump and saw 124V on each line and your motor is configured for 240, it should run. Check that the shaft is not binding and that it rotates freely. Then I'd talk to whoever you bought the motor from about getting a replacement. If you bought it from us, call 407-834-2200 and talk to one of our service reps.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/23/2017 

I just purchased a new motor last week and it was shipped to me incredibly fast. I watched the video and did everything step by step but the motor did not run when I turned on the breaker plus the timer switch. I have 124 v coming from each wire and I'm not sure if that is the problem or not for the 230v. I called my electrician friend and he said I should be good. Is there any other trouble shooting solutions I can try?

Thanks
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 6/18/2017 

All of a sudden I became an electrician, plummer, handyman, investor, pool maintenance guy....so easy I saved about 500. Pinch a penny wanted $320 for the motor, $35 for the o ring set [not necessary], $180 installation and $80 to balance the water. I bought it from you for 150. tks.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/13/2017 

Thanks so much for this great info and especially the photos. My 3/4 hp Hayward was humming. Tried several times to repair but could not open get to all the parts. UNTIL now. Thanks again.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/17/2017 

Thanks great price on the pump motor, my second time in 10 years, I seem to have a bearing problem in this area. This motor is much quieter than previous one I like it. Thanks Johnny
 Reply

 Posted: 5/15/2017 

Just finished installing my replacement pump today and wanted to thank you for both the product and your service! Great experience - from ordering through delivery. Great price! I really appreciated the videos and step-by-step instructions, made the job so much easier. Had a couple of questions during install, both answered quickly by knowledgeable staff. Will be using you for ALL my future pool needs. Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/6/2017 

robert - Yes, in all but a fell cases, motors used in one manufacturer's pumps are the same as the other manufacturers'. It's the pump housings that are different.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/5/2017 

i have a pentiar whisperflo s/n 0395269140004t would the haywood work for me ??
 Reply

 Posted: 3/14/2017 

Just finished installing my new pump and wanted to comment. Ordering process was very easy. The price was great, even with the seal kit. Free shipping was a nice bonus too. The directions on this page made me feel confident to tackle this. It was a pretty straightforward install and now I have a brand new, and much quieter, pump motor running again. Thanks for a great experience.
 Reply

 Posted: 3/3/2017 

Thank you so much for the help with my new pool motor. I asked for a replacement and was told which motor was correct. I ordered the new motor and received it in 3 days. I had to take the old motor to the pool store to verify 115v or 230v. It was not marked. Replaced with new motor and all is great. New motor is lots quieter.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/28/2017 

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I disassembled the motor three weeks before getting the new one and needed this video to aid me in re-assembly.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/24/2017 

I hope you guys make a fortune cause you saved me one with the
motor replacement viideo
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/24/2017 

zamer - Thank you for your comment. You are correct. We should have mentioned the need to replace the motor shaft seal in the video. If we remake this video, we will add this in but until then we suggest looking at the step-by-step guide following the video. It does reference the need to replace the shaft seal and links to another guide to show you how to do it.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/20/2017 

you mention one should change the shaft seals with a new motor but you do not show this in your video or mention it in the video.
 Reply

 Posted: 12/20/2016 

Thanks for the great tutorial! Though i panicked when i didn't see the diffuser wear ring, because i skipped the disassembly steps, and missed the warning there! Still, awesome write up, thanks!!!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/26/2016 

Matt - The newer motors have a knob on the left side of the wiring terminal that sets the voltage configuration for your motor. Turn the knob clockwise for 230V, counterclockwise for 115V as marked. If your motor is configured for 115V, check your incoming voltage. It should show 115V across the two leads (black and white).
 Reply

 Posted: 9/22/2016 

I just installed the UST1102 to replace my pump motor that had failed. Original pump was wired to 115V with Black, White and Green wiring. I installed my new pump to match the 115V service. When I primed the pump and switched it on there was a lot of smoke from the electrical of the pump, which dissipated after about one minute.However, the junction boxes leading to the pump started to smoke as well. Water did flow to the filter and out of the discharges normally. Is it possible the the wiring is in-fact 230V?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/20/2016 

new motor hums - Humming is usually an indication of a failed start capacitor. If you bought the motor from us, talk to one of our sales reps at 877-372-6038 about replacing the motor. First, check to make sure the motor is wired correctly and that the motor is configured to match the supply voltage. Also, confirm that the motor shaft rotates freely.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 9/19/2016 

Just put in new motor and it turns on and makes a humming sound but doesn't turn
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/2/2016 

William - You are correct, we always recommend replacing the shaft seal, and as long as the motor is out we recommend replacing the gaskets also. This should have been stated in the guide.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/2/2016 

Did I miss something or did you guys choose to not replace any gaskets or seals in your video and if so, why not?

Thanks,

William
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/31/2016 

Jack - Try pouring some vinegar over the housing seal. Then tap around the seal with a rubber mallet. And finally, tap the end of the motor to try to break it free.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/28/2016 

I can't remove the pump motor from the pump housing. The nuts came off fine but it looks like the motor is sealed with calcium deposit thru the bolt holes and around the seal. Any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/4/2016 

tim - I would take the motor out again and reset the shaft seal. Sounds like you may have an alinement issue.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/2/2016 

Thanks for instructions. I just changed mine yesterday. All seems good, except when I start pool pump , it just soumds rather loud with a slight whine( not sure if its just because im used to my old motors noise)

no leaks or anything by gaskets

was wondering if i should take off motor again and inspect everything and see if that might help


any info would help

thanks
tim
 Reply

 Posted: 5/1/2016 

I cant thank you enough! For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to detach the motor from the housing. Thank you Thank you Thank you ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Joe
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/18/2016 

John - Check to make sure your incoming voltage is 115 and not 230. If it is, the motor should be covered by warranty. If you bought it from us, give us a call at 877-372-6038.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/18/2016 

motor ID - I couldn't find anything on the Sta Rite numbers you gave me. There should be a part number stamped into the impeller. See our guide on "How to identify your Pool Motor without the label" for more information.
 Reply