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How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump

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This guide will explain how to replace your inground pool pump motor. We will go step by step through disassembling your pool pump, discarding the old motor, repairing the new motor, its installation, and how to wire it.

If you have any questions about finding the correct replacement motor for your in-ground pool pump, read our guide on how to do so: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Note: Please read the complete guide before starting your installation.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor



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Step 1

Select the Correct Replacement Motor - Find the Model (MOD), Catalog (CAT), or Part (P/N) on your old motor’s information tag and enter it into Inyo’s product search. 

If you cannot find the necessary information or want more information on identifying the correct replacement pool pump motor, read our guide: How To Choose The Right Replacement Pool Pump Motor.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 2

Select Replacement Shaft Seal or GOKIT - When replacing a pool pump motor, always replace the shaft seal; this seal is the last line of defense between the surging water in your pump housing and your brand new motor. 

To find the correct replacement shaft seal, you’ll need to identify the make and model of your pump housing. The pump’s model number or model should be listed on one of the pump housing stickers.

GOKITs (Gasket/O-Ring Kits) includes the shaft seal and major gaskets and seals for your specific pump housing. If your pump is older, it may be good to replace all seals while the pump is disassembled to ensure a watertight installation.

If you need help identifying your pump housing: Read our guide: How To Identify Your Pump Manufacturer

Related Articles - How To Replace A Motor Shaft Seal 

Click Here to Find Your Pump's GOKIT

Step 3

Shut off Power to the Pump - Shut down the pump’s power source by flipping its breaker.

Step 4

Disconnect Bonding Wire - Unscrew the bonding wire lug to remove it from the motor.

Step 5

Remove Motor From Housing - Use a 9/16” wrench to remove the 6 to 8 (pump model specific) bolts from the pump seal plate, then pull the motor assembly away from the housing.

Step 6

Remove Motor Endcap - Use a screwdriver to loosen the motor endcap’s two screws. Place the endcap to the side after it’s removed.

Step 7

Short the Capacitor - The capacitor may store residual current, making the motor turn while we’re working. To prevent this misfire, using the tip of an insulated-handle screwdriver to both of the capacitor terminals leads to the discharge of the capacitor—also, Plac is a protective material or material between your face to prevent injury from sparks.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 8

Note Old Motor Wiring and Voltage Setting - Before disconnecting any terminal wires, note or take a picture of the motor’s terminal board. This will help ensure we set the correct voltage and wiring for the new motor installation.

Step 9

Disconnect Terminal Board Wires - Disconnect all hot, neutral, and ground wires from the terminal board.

These will be the wires coming into the motor from the conduit hole.

Step 10

Pull Wires - Pull the disconnected wires out of the motor through the conduit adapter.

Step 11

Remove Conduit Elbow - Unscrew the conduit adapter elbow from the old motor; place the adapter to the side for reuse on the new motor.

Step 12

Remove Diffuser - Remove the diffuser from the end of the motor assembly. Some pump models like the Hayward Super II use fins to stabilize the diffuser in the seal plate; this design allows you to pull the diffuser without tools. Other models like the Jandy Stealth uses screws to secure the diffuser to the seal plate; these will need to be removed first.

Step 13

Remove Impeller Wear Ring - Pull off the impeller’s wear ring.

Note: This step does not apply to all pump designs; not all pumps are designed with a wear ring.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 14

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Use a 9/16" wrench or a flathead screwdriver to stabilize the shaft.

Step 15

Remove Impeller Screw (If Necessary) - If your impeller uses an impeller screw, use a screwdriver to remove it. Not all impeller designs use an impeller lock screw like the impeller ring. Check your pump model’s parts listing before, or check for a screw during installation.

Note: The impeller lock screw is left-hand threaded (reverse thread). That is why you turn it clockwise to remove it.

Related Articles - Do I Need an Impeller Lock Screw?

Step 16

Unscrew Impeller from the Motor Shaft - While the motor shaft is stabilized, unscrew the impeller counter-clockwise.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 17

Remove the Seal plate (Motor Mounts to a Separate Mounting Plate) - Depending on the pump design, the seal plate may pull off easily after the impeller is removed because there’s a separate motor mount plate that backs the seal plate.

Step 18

Remove Seal Plate (Motor Mounts Directly to Seal Plate) - For models that use the seal plate as a mounting bracket, you will need to remove the four mounting bolts from the backside of the seal plate.

Step 19

Remove the New Motor’s Endcap - Re-screw the endcap screw on the new motor, and set the endcap screws aside for later re-installation.

Step 20

Install Motor Mounting Bracket or Seal Plate (Depending on Pump Design) - Use the four motor mount screws to reattach the seal plate or motor mount to the face of the motor.

The top of the motor mounting plate for this pump is labeled "TOP"—alternate bolts when tightening (1,3,2,4).

Step 21

Place the Plate Over the Mount Mount (Depending on Pump Design) - If your seal plate is separate from your motor mounting bracket, set it in place now.

Step 22

Remove Old Shaft Seal - Remove the old shaft seal from the old seal plate and impeller steam. Ensure to remove all bits of the old shaft seal, ensuring a snug fit of the new seal.

Note: There are two types of shaft seals used in modern pool pump design; one has the white ceramic side sit in the seal plate, and the spring-loaded side sits on the stem of the impeller. They are shown In Steps 23 & 25. The other standard design is vice versa; the white ceramic sits in an impeller cup around the impeller stem, while the spring-side sits in the seal plate. They are shown In Steps 24 & 26.

Refer to your owner’s manual or the corresponding pars schematic on our Inyo's Pool Pump Parts Finder

Step 23

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic in Seal Plate - Use a clean cloth to press the white ceramic side into the seal plate. First, make sure the Shaft seal is completely seated in the seal plate. Next, use a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt or finger grease that may have marked the smooth ring’s face.

Step 24

Install First Half of Shaft Seal - White Ceramic on impeller Stem - With a clean cloth, press the ceramic shaft seal into the impeller with the white ceramic side facing up.

Step 25

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side on Impeller - Slide the new shaft seal's spring-loaded side onto the impeller stem.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 26

Install Second Half of Shaft Seal - Spring-Side Seal Plate -  Place a 1" PVC coupler over the seal and lightly hammer the seal into the plate. Check the front and back of the plate to ensure the seal is flush with the plate.

Tip: Apply a small amount of RTV silicone to the metal cup base of the spring-side piece. This will ensure the shaft seal stays secure in the seal plate during installation.

Step 27

Stabilize Motor Shaft - Stabilize the motor shaft with a 9/16” wrench.

Step 28

Install impeller - Hand-tighten impeller onto the end of the motor shaft.

Step 29

Re-Install Impeller Lock Screw (If Necessary) - Screw in the impeller lock screw if your pump requires one.

Step 30

Re-Install Impeller Ring (If Necessary) - Install the old impeller lock screw into the new impeller. Remember, this screw is a reverse thread “Lefty-Tighty.”

Step 31

Re-Install Diffuser - Place the diffuser over the impeller, and align the tabs (or screw holes) of the diffuser into the holes of the seal plate. Install diffuser screws (model dependent.)

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Parts

Step 32

Install Diffuser O-Ring - Apply Teflon lube to the new diffuser o-ring, then slide it into place.

Step 33

Install Housing Gasket - Lube the housing gasket with either Teflon or silicone, then install it into the seal plate’s gasket groove.

Step 34

Mount Motor Assembly to Housing - Slid the motor assembly into the pump housing.

Step 35

Install Pump Housing Bolts - Re-attach the 6 to 8  bolts to secure the motor assembly to the pump housing. The number of bolts varies depending on the model.

Step 36

Attach Conduit Adapter - Screw on the original conduit adapter to the new motor.

Step 37

Connect Wires to Terminal Board - Check your new motor’s wiring diagram to confirm wire orientations.

In this example, we had a single-speed motor running on 230v. We connected the Black hot line to L1, the Red hot line to L2, and the green ground line to the green screw.

Click Here to Find Your Replacement Pool Pump Motor

Step 38

Attach Motor’s Endcap - install the motor’s endcap using two screws.

Step 39

Prime the pump - Use a hose to fill the strainer housing with water, then close the pump lid.

Related Articles - How To Prime a Pool Pump, How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime

Step 40

Turn on the Pump - Switch on the pump’s breaker, to restore power.


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(41 to 80 of 215)

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/26/2019 

Hello Shawn - Yes, the correct replacement would be motor model UST1072. Running hot is normal for the motors but the noise is a sign that the bearings are going bad. The motor will eventually stop working. It's hard to say how long it will run loud before quitting.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/6/2019 

My motor sounds fine but is leaking. Model SP2607X10. Will I need to replace it or just replace a gasket?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/7/2019 

If the motor is working fine, but a leak is present, replace the offending gasket.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/25/2019 

What replacement motor is for an A.O. Smith SP3207Z1BE, part 7-196235-24, Serial 257093M, FR Y56Y, Type CP, H/P 3/4, SP 1.85, Code E, RPM 3450, Volts 115/208-230,
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/30/2019 

The correct replacement for your Tristar is the Hayward Motor, 3/4hp Full Tristar 115/208-230v - SPX3207Z1BER.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/24/2019 

Can’t get my motor out after I removed all four bolts. It moves about 1/2” but won’t slide all the way out any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/26/2019 

Did you remove the impeller from the end of the motor shaft?
 Reply

 Posted: 6/13/2019 

What motor should I replece by Hayward SP2607X20 motor with and what gasket kit?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/14/2019 

Please verify the model number SP2607X20. The numbers in it contradict one another; it would either be 2607X10, or 2615X20.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/7/2019 

We did all this but can’t get it to prime....? Could a gasket be not sealed correctly?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/13/2019 

A lid o-ring would be the first gasket to check. If you have a cartridge or DE filter, I would use the air relief valve to clear any air in the system. How To Determine Why a Pool Pump Won't Prime
 Reply

 Posted: 5/22/2019 

You are a lifesaver! And a money saver! The step by step directions with pictures made changing the motor to my pump seem easy! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
 Reply

 Posted: 4/6/2019 

April 6, 2019 Hello; What motor should I replace my motor with it was an A.O. Smith model # K48N2PA102A2 HP 2, SF 1.3 , RPM 3450? I would also like one that is more energy efficient. Thank You Adrianna
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/8/2019 

Hello Adrianna - the replacement motor is the B843 2 HP Square Flange 56Y Full Rate Energy Efficient Motor. If you want a more energy efficient motor then you would need to go with something like the ECM27SQU - V-Green Variable Speed 
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/4/2019 

a loud sound on a motor may be a bearing sound to identify place your fingers ontop of the motor and feel the motor casing. if it seems to rattle and the sound seems to align with the rattleing then you need a bearing replacement. unfortunately if the four bolts holding the motor together are rusted. you may need to replace the motor. the capacitor is also a cause of motor humming.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/14/2019 

Hi. I have a Magnetek Century Centurion motor, CAT B122, part # 8-164299-22, 1 H.P., type CX, volts 230/115, amps SF 7.2/14.4, HZ 60, SF 1.40, time Cont., Code J, Frame L56C, Form KJM, Serial BP1-113,1081 pool pump duty mount Horiz with vent holes down. Do you have a direct replacement for this pump motor ? Do you have an more efficient version available? Mine is connected to 115 volts. thanks Ron
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/15/2019 

Hello Ron - The energy efficient option for the B122 is model B653.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/3/2019 

Hi. Are you able to offer a motor/pump package which uses the B653 motor? I only have 110 volt power available and need a total of 1.4 HP. thanks, Ron
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/4/2019 

Hello Ron - Can you provide the model number of your pump housing? The B653 can be mounted to a few pump housing, which have varying flow rates. If we know which particular housing you have, we can find a similar pump model replacement.
 Reply

 Posted: 2/4/2019 

Hi Matt S. The pump housing has P/N 351523. Below that the tag says "WTEND PMP RFP 590 .75F. serial no. 035139120003N. Basically, I want to replace our old motor/pump package that produces a total of 1.4 Hp and connects to 110V power. I want a more efficient motor than what we currently have which uses 14.4 amps. i have heard that motors which use a permanent magnet are much more efficient. My current motor is a Magnetek Century Centurion motor, CAT B122, part # 8-164299-22, 1 H.P., type CX, volts 230/115, amps SF 7.2/14.4, HZ 60, SF 1.40, time Cont., Code J, Frame L56C, Form KJM, Serial BP1-113,1081 pool pump duty mount Horiz with vent holes down.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 2/6/2019 

Because your motor has a keyed shaft, the standard variable speed replacement motors available would not match up. All new pumps used a threaded shaft which would not align correctly for your Pentair Hydropump.
 Reply

 Posted: 12/7/2018 

Great instructions - thank you! My motor's bearing sounds like it's seen better days so it's time to replace it. I have a Hayward RS750 pump with A.O.Smith model K48K2N104, 3/4 hp, SF 1.5, RPM 3450, Amps 13.0/6.5, 115/230 volts, single phase. Which pump is a direct replacement for this? I'm hoping to replace with one even more energy efficient. Thanks!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/7/2018 

Hello Greg - The replacement motor for your pool pump is model CT1072
 Reply

 Posted: 10/19/2018 

My motor is extremely loud and running very hot, are these signs that it may be time for a replacement?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/19/2018 

Hi Bill, Yes these are telltale signs that your motor needs to be replaced. Do you know the make and model of your pump as well as the HP, SF, Volts, and Amps? If you can supply us with this information then we can make the proper recommendation for a replacement.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 10/19/2018 

I have a Hayward 1.5 HP Super II Pump and the motor has the following specifications... HP = 1.5, SF = 1, Volts= 115V/230V and Amps = 18.6/9.3
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/19/2018 

You will require the UST1152 Replacement Motor and the Hayward Super II Tune Up Kit.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/6/2018 

I have a 1 HP Hayward Super II pump which needs the motor to be replaced. Do you know which motor I require?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/6/2018 

Hi Patrick, Could you let us know the service factor of your motor this will be listed as value under the SF heading on your motor label.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/6/2018 

Here is my motor information... Volts: 115/230v, HP: 1, Amps: 15.0/7.5, SF: 1.1, RPM: 3450, Frame: 56J
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/6/2018 

Thank you Patrick that information is quite helpful. You will require a UST1102 1 HP Replacement Motor and GOKIT2 Hayward Super II Tune Up Kit.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/14/2018 

Hello Keith - By normal sound, a louder humming sound? If so, that could be a bad phasing. The motor may begin to trip the breaker if the problem persists. The end result would would be replacing the motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/13/2018 

1HP max-e-pro, My pump isn't making a screeching sound, it's just gotten a LOT louder with the normal sound it makes. Do I need a new motor, or seal replacement? any ideas? thx!
 Reply

 Posted: 10/6/2018 

We would suggest replacing the motor as well as a seal replacement. Could you give us the following information off your motor label so we may suggest the proper replacement (amps, volts, HP and SF)?
 Reply

 Posted: 8/8/2018 

Hello Dave - First I would check that the motor is set to the correct voltage. Dual voltage motors are shipped from the factory set to 230 volts. If you have a 115-volt power source, the motor will not have enough juice to get to speed. Also, make sure that you are replacing like for like. A common mistake is that homeowners will try to replace 1HP fullrate with a 1HP uprate motor. Though the horsepowers are the same, the service factor ratings are different, meaning the fullrated is the more powerful motor and likely is paired with a larger impeller. The larger impeller puts more drag on the motor, and the smaller 1HP uprate motor can't spin the impeller.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/8/2018 

i just replaced a motor. impeller wasnt turning very well when i installed brand new motor. not sure why. after wiring in, got humming noise but impeller would not spin. why? i put new shaft seal also
 Reply

 Posted: 7/23/2018 

Very pleased I found this company pool site. Your videos and repair instructions are great. I have been looking on youtube and other sites for two weeks for complete info on pump and motor repairs. You are the best.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/15/2018 

I'm guessing you could save a couple dollars and by the motor on ebay, but the videos and customer service of this site are worth paying for, 100%. Thanks guys for this incredible resource for DIY pool owners.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/23/2018 

Decided to buy and install this motor for my pool pump. Instructions were great! Thanks for all the pictures and details. I was up and running in 90 minutes. Saved me $300 over local service provider.
 Reply

 Posted: 6/8/2018 

Hello Kam - There is a chance you replaced a full rated motor with an uprated version. Does the HP and SF rating match the original motor?
 Reply