Part # PL7100
Warranty 1 Year
Dimensions 6-3/4" X 5-3/8"
This PCB board is not the Hayward™ original PCB Board and is an After-Market generic PCB Board by Pureline
Please note if you have an automation system connected to your Aqua Rite system, you will need to purchase the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITE
Aftermarket Compatible Main PC Board for AquaRite™
Inyo Pools now offers an affordable replacement for the Hayward™ AquaRite™ Main PC board (GLX-PCB-RITE).
Our PC board is a compatible replacement for your original Hayward™ Goldline™ Aquarite™ PC board. It is guaranteed to be compatible with OEM Hayward Aquarite T-CELL-15™ or T-CELL-9™ and our own PureLine replacement salt cells. NOTE: If you have the T-CELL-5™ or T-CELL-3™ or an automation system (AquaLink™, AquaLogic™, ProLogic™, IntelliTouch™ and EasyTouch™), then we suggest the Hayward OEM Circuit Board GLX-PCB-RITE. This board will not work with older model salt systems and may not work with other manufacturers' salt cells.
The main circuit board is the heart of your salt system. Without it, your system will no longer sanitize your pool effectively. In most cases, the AquaRite™ main PC Board will fail due to an electrical surge, lightning, or a brownout.
Worried about the installation? Don't be.... Check out how easy it is to replace your Aquarite™ PC board by watching our Video on How to replace your AquaRite™ Main PC Board
Compatibility:
*Inyo Pools is not affiliated with Hayward® Industries Inc. The use of such trademarks herein is for informational purposes only, and the goods are not those of Hayward® Industries Inc, but rather they are simply compatible with the referenced Hayward® product. All manufacturers’ names, brand names, trademarks, images, symbols, descriptions, and part numbers are used herein for reference purposes only.
I bought the PL7100 board and on the old board it had grey, violet, white, and blue wires. The new board has grey, violet, white, and black. I assume the blue goes to the black. Is that correct?
Reply
Hi Scott, That is correct, the blue wire would go to the BLK.
Reply
I bought a PL7100 and it came with no wiring diagram. The new board is different than the old. I need to verify for sure how to wire the power. It will be wired for 120V
Reply
Hi Scott, This board will be wired the same as the OEM PCB, you can view our How To: Replace an Aqua Rite Main PCB guide for installation instructions. You can also find the wiring diagram for 120 VAC on page 23 of the AquaRite Owner's Manual.
Reply
How do I know what model I have and if this will replace it? I have a T-15 cell. Everything is about 10 years old, the original home owners had the pool installed, I don't have any documentation. Thanks.
Reply
Hi Mike, This circuit board will work for your system as it works for all versions of the T-15 salt cell even one that is 10 years old, so this would be the correct replacement PCB for you.
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I have a current board number 066012C-1 REV: C will the Pureline PL7100 work as a replacement? I'm concerned with compatibility since they kinda looks different.
Reply
Hi Dave, The PL7100 is compatible only if you have the Aquarite T-CELL-15 or T-CELL-9 system.
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I have an Aqua Rite Made by Hsywood. Will this board fit mine?
Reply
Hi Sue Yes as long as you have the AquaRite T-CELL-15, GLX-CELL-15, T-CELL-9 or GLX-CELL-9 system then this is the correct replacement for you. Normally you can look on your salt cell and there will be a label saying which model you have. The systems indicated above are by far the most popular AquaRite systems so chances are this will be the correct replacement board for you.
Reply
1 to 2 hrs
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver
2 0
Found our circuit board had blown now allowing our salt system to function. With a search of your site we found a replacement board and watched the video from the staff. Felt at ease in replacing it with the after market review from the on-line crew. Saved us a couple hundred dollars.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket Set
3 0
Video instructions were great. Just need to watch out for some Diagnostic settings that will be different. 3rd button press - AMP had a minus "-" sign which is fine. 8th button press - Cell size had a "H" prefix vs. "T" prefix i.e., H-15; My board also had 9th and 10th diagnostic values "E000" (E is backwards "3") and "--EE". This is no issue since the board is manufactured to use with other systems that use the extra diagnostic values that the Aquarite systems does NOT use. I am super impressed with the price and video instruction. I chatted with support and they will update the product manual at some point.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Socket Set, Needle nose pliers
1 0
Super simple I just followed the video.
I got the required tools.
Turned off the power.
Took off the plate on the front.
Removed the display panel.
Unplug the old board and removed it.
Put the new board in place.
Plugged the new board in (the cords were in different locations from the video, but all were labeled and it was easy I do).
Put the display board back on (the pins were a little askew, but I was able to align it).
Put the front panel back on.
Turn on the power.
I checked, but no setting needed to be changed.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers
1 0
Called customer service to confirm this was right replacement part. Received product and installed in 45 minutes. As I took off old board I took cell phone photos of existing connections on board to ensure proper reconnection on new board. New board worked great!
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Socket Set
0 1
The technicians at Inyo pools were amazing! They helped me troubleshoot the problem with my salt system. I was able to order the parts and replace the main PCB board. It’s saved me a ton of money resolving the issue on my own. A service call from a local company would have been very expensive.
Less than 1 hr
Nut Drivers
2 0
Main board was shot, no led lights, LCD panel worked, called and confirmed settings with Hayward to determine it was the main board.
1. Power off all breakers
2. use a 5/16 nut driver remove control panel cover of aquarite
3. remove lcd screen from main board
4. remove color coded power on board
5. install jumper on new main board as instructed on installation papers, make sure you have either a 230 or 110v
6. install main board - gently press board on the plastic mounts
7. install color coded power leads
8. install (VERY GENTLY) the lcd screen if you do NOT get it right it will not power up.
9. secure the face plate with 5/16 nuts
10. Power on and adjust aquarite as needed.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket Set
3 0
The motherboard on our Hayward salt chlorinator died for some reason. The transformer had power but not the MB, after using a current tester.
So, to fix this after recieving the replacement MB from Inyo;
I flipped the appropriate breaker for the salt system off. Disconnected the cell telephone line and multiplug that control the t-cell.
I then removed the display board that simply pops off.
Removed power lines from the motherboard.
Disconnected all the wiring from the transformer, and grounding system using needle nose pliers (gray, violet, white, blue; yellow, orange; red and black).
I used a 5/16 socket wrench to loosen the two bottom screws holding the motherboard.
Then, after sliding the motherboard up and out I used the replacement board and reversed the process, replacing the wiring, and power lines last. The MB has abbreviations for all the colored wiring, which made it simple.
Once I secured the MB and double checked everything was correct, I flipped the circuit breaker to the pool. The display powered up immediately. I used the Inyo DIY video to guide me through it.
It took me 15 minutes and couldnt have been simpler.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers
1 0
I called Inyopools for a replacement PCB for my salt system. The board arrived in 2 days.
Installation was simple:
1. Turn off circuit to panel.
2. Open panel door and remove 2 screws that hold the base plate.
3. Unplug wires from cell and sensor.
4. Remove face plate and begin removing the wires from the PCB in the following order:
a. remove 2 power line screws (remember where they go)
b. using needle nose pliers, remove the rest of the wires from their connectors
5. Loosen the 2 screws on bottom of the PCB then remove the PCB by lifting up and out.
6. Once out, remove the 4 plastic pins holding the display. (squeeze the back with your pliers as you push them out)
7. Remove at least 2 of the shorter plastic pins to use on the new board.
8. Place the shorter pins onto the new board
9. Install the display onto the new PCB being careful to align the metal pins into the connector as well as the plastic pins.
10. Replace the PCB back into the panel box.
11. Install the wires back onto their proper connectors. Just match the wire color to the color on the PCB.
12. Attach the power wires and the sensor and salt plug.
13. Turn power on.
All done...This job takes about 15 mins to complete and all that's needed is a screw driver, needle nose pliers and a 5/16" socket (a screwdriver handle with replaceable bits has the 5/16" socket built in it)
Less than 1 hr
Pliers, Socket Set
1 to 2 hrs
Screwdriver, Pliers, Adjustable Wrench
1 0
When I received my Aqua Rite Replacement Main PCB the instructions were very clear and easy to
understand.... All that is needed is a screwdriver and pliers, turn off power, remove all wires as instructed
all are color coded remove PCB and install the new one in reverse... hook up all wires (match the color
on wires to the colors on the board) turn on power start pump recalibrate the cell.. Turn system off then
to auto... Push diagnostics button until (Instant Salt) appears Wait and system should stabilize. While the
screen shows instant salt flip the main switch from Auto to Super Chlrinate the back to Auto... Adjust salt to 2700 to 3400 ppms... Swim and Enjoy..
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers
1 0
I called my pool place (quite a distance) who said it was probably the board which would be 600+ to replace. Said it happened all the time with power surges or lightening strikes. Looking around online I found INYOPools generic board and figured it would be worth a try at almost 75% less cost. When I got it, I followed the video and instructions exactly, assuming it was 115 and so I set the jumpers. Unfortunately, it was wrong. When I flipped the breaker, a very LOUD buzz was heard. I immediately flipped it back off and called INYOPools. The tech knew right away what it was, I changed the jumper and it works perfectly. Luckily, it didn't fry the board. For future reference, check how the jumpers look on the original and you will know how it should look for your new board.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Pliers
1 0
The instructions for replacing the board were very easy. Shut power off, removed mounting screws from bad board. Removed digital readout from old board. Installed on replacement board. Then reinstalled into housing. Almost a perfect fit.
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Nut Drivers, Pliers, Socket Set
3 0
I noted that the power light for Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator (with TurboCell T-CELL-15) wouldn't stay on. It would go on for about 20 seconds and then stay off for several minutes and cycle through this. I called the Hayward telephone number and talked to someone there and he had me check the cell voltage. Sure enough, the voltge rose to the correct level (and the power light came on) and then dropped to zero and then started rising back up as the power light stayed off. He said it sounded like a bad Main PCB board. I ordered one from Inyopolls.com. It arrived very quickly in great shape with good instructions. I followed the instructions to turn off the power, remove the screws, remove the connnecting wires, take out the old board (remove the display panel from the old board) put in the new board, connect the wires according to the directions, (put the display panel back on), turn the power back on, and follow the rest of the instructions. (The other instructions involved pushing the Diagnostic button as instructed to set the salt reading and be sure the correct Cell Size was selected). Al this was easy to do and the new unit is working perfectly.
The Most Helpful Review
5 2
(5 out of 5 stars) PERFECT REPLACEMENT.
Reviewed By: TAXMAN ()
PURCHASE WENT SMOOTH AND INSTALLATION WAS EASY. I INTEND TO PURCHASE FROM THIS COMPANY AGAIN.
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The Most Recent Reviews
(5 out of 5 stars) Main board for the Hayward
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
The part came timely. Saved a good amount of money by buying the aftermarket piece. Video and instructions helped us to put other part on ourselves saving even more money!
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(5 out of 5 stars) This is the one to get!
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
Easy trouble free installation. Worked perfectly!
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2 0
(3 out of 5 stars) Not the same as OEM
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
It’s okay, it will do the job but FAR from the OEM board. The flow light when first started does not come on like the original, when you switch up to “super chlorinate” it does not turn the light on and does not register at 100% it makes no change in chlorine % output. Have to physically turn knob to 100%. I spoke with a representative and she assured me there was no difference between this board and the OEM. First time shopping here and product didn’t meet my expectations. Wish I would have bought the OEM.
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(5 out of 5 stars) Works Great!
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
Simple installation works great and a lot cheaper than replacing the whole system.
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1 0
(4 out of 5 stars) 240v Jumper Needed
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
Sooooooo this generic one does not come with a jumper and if you have someone whose not paying attention they will miss it and fail to remove it from the old one. If you have a 240v you need to connect the two center terminals with a jumper in order for it to work. I was able to make one with a few supplies from Lowe’s. It took a lot of research to figure out why there was no power and honestly I just needed to look at the inside of the door to put two and two together.
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(5 out of 5 stars)
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
Ordered this and found my display button was stuck. Into let me return for credit. However awesome compared to original equipment cost.
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1 0
(5 out of 5 stars)
Reviewed By: Inyo Customer ()
Excellent product and easy to install. The fit and detail were perfect. Took me exactly 24 minutes and 12 seconds to replace the circuit board, from finding my socket wrench, to washing my hands. And it works! This is significant, since my mechanical skills are somewhat south of Neanderthal. There is no soldering, no difficult placement - just plug and screw. Easy! Saved me right at $450 from my local pool shop, if they could find it. They told me they probably could not get a replacement part, since Hayward no longer makes this item. Then, they told me that since they probably could not find the circuit board, I would need an entire new unit, plus cell, for a reasonable price (their words) of only $1950!! Finally, the installation instructions on the INYO site were the best I have ever seen, since I first tried to change the points on my ‘61 Studebaker (see above).
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