Part # 9237-137
Manufacturer Code 520736
FLOW SWITCH ASSY INTELLICHLOR (#N/A)
Is it difficult to repair the flow switch assembly on the Intellichlor?Does it come with instructions on how to disassemble and put back together correctly?
Reply
Hello Andrea - The flow switch is not difficult to install. It will take 15-30 minutes to complete the installation. Installation instructions are included.
Reply
Hi, we have a Pentair ic40. We have a problem that when we started on the System, all the lights are on, then after a few seconds, all the lights turn off again. Do you have an idea what could be the problem? It is the flow switch that could be damage?
Thanks in advance , Waldemar
Reply
Sounds to me like there's a power issue, first thing to check would be the power supply. Unplug the power supply cord from power center, check for 25-36 DC volts across the black and red wires, if the volt meter reads the correct voltage then the cell would need replaced, if the voltage does not read correct you will want to change the power supply. Thank you again for contacting us at InyoPools.
Reply
I have an IC15 unit. The red flow light stays on constantly but the flow continues. My pool store says I need a new flow control unit. Does the same flow control unit fit all units or is there a special one for the IC15
Reply
Hi Joseph, Yes, all Intellichlor models uses the same flow switch.
Reply
Sense the flow switch for the IC40 has two probes. Does that mean 1 is for flow, and the other probe is for salt concentrstion. Or is there another switch you have to buy for the salt level
Reply
Hi, Torrance. The flow switch sensor do not relay the salinity level back to the system, it only monitors water flow when the two probes make contact just like a magnetic sensor. The salinity sensor is built into the cell and can not be replaced. You will have to replace the entire IC40 Cell - 520555.
Reply
Less than 1 hr
Screwdriver, Channel locks
6 0
It was quite simple following the INYO Pools provided instructions. Removed the plastic cover that protects the wiring on the switch end. It's the thing with the fine metal pieces hanging down in the flow area. Cut the wires as instructed (close to the defunct meter) and splice them with the provided splicers. Screw in the new flowmeter. Make sure the arrows line up on the top, this is important. Put the plastic cover back on. That's it! The hardest part was getting the wires back in the plastic cover as there is extra length with the instructions. If I were to do it again I would cut the wire so it would be shorter.
