Generally you will want to replace your old
pool pump with an equivalent size new pool pump. When selecting a pool pump, remember that you must look at the pool pumps Service factor as well as its listed HP to determine its true or Total HP (THP). The old standard pool pump is a 1 1/2 HP Hayward Super II pump. The equivalent EE pool pump is listed as a 1 HP Hayward EE Super II pump. However, it's actual HP, called Total HP, is the product of HP (1) times its Service Factor (SF = 1.5) or 1.5 Total HP. The standard old pool pump is listed as 1.5 HP. It has a SF of 1.0 so its THP is 1.5 HP times 1.0 SF = 1.5 THP. The two pool pumps are equivalent - they will generate the same Gallons per Minute of water flow though the pipes.
Click Here to Find Your New Energy Efficient Pump
Click Here to Find Your Energy Efficient Replacement Pool Pump Motor & Gasket Kit
Jeremy L Posted: 4/20/2019
Without the article, I don't know if I would have been able to install my own pump. Pump is in, it wasn't that complicated and everything runs perfectly! THANK YOU.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 4/23/2019
You're welcome, Jeremy. We're glad we could help. Thank you for the feedback!Reply
Harry Foveaux Posted: 10/6/2016
Good article.
Many times (especially with legacy equipment) the information provide by the manufactures is limiter and what is available is wrong. Any ideas on how to address that eventuality?
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 11/16/2015
Nancy Jones - If your want to pull your old motor out of your pump housing to replace it with a new motor, see our guide on " How To Replace the Motor on Your Pool Pump".Reply
Nancy Jones Posted: 11/15/2015
need to know how to remove my filter basket(SP2607X10) from the old motor SP1607Z1M) can replace motor only / Would appreciate your help Thanks, NANCYReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/2/2015
Mshaw - Using a voltmeter, check that the supply voltage coming into your pump motor is equal to the motor voltage configuration. If 230V are coming in, motor should be set up for 230V. If 115V, motor should be set for 115V.Reply
Mshaw Posted: 7/1/2015
I just installed my new pump and it is working, but clicking on and off. Any suggestions?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/17/2015
Safety comment - That's a good suggestion. Thank you for your time. I will add it to our guide.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 6/16/2015
From a safety perspective I would add a comment between steps 3 and 4. Once the power is turned off the breaker panel box should be labeled in some way to let others know it should not be turned back on. Especially if the breaker panel box is out of site of the person doing the pump work. Just my two cents worth as a safety guy!I agree with others, this is a good step-by-step description!
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/5/2014
John - Thanks you for your comment. You are correct. Tape is not required on a union since, as you point out, its O-ring provides the seal.Reply
James Posted: 5/4/2014
I have a question. Why did you wrap teflon tape around the threads of the union? Doesn't the union have an o-ring that seals it?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 8/10/2013
MARKAMANIA - If your 1 HP motor provides enough flow to keep your size pool clean, stay with 1 HP. A 1.50 HP motor will cost you more in operating costs.Reply
MARKAMANIA Posted: 8/7/2013
IS IT BETTER TO REPLACE A 1 HP MOTOR WITH A 1.50 HORSE MOTORReply
Mike Posted: 10/15/2012
I need to change my pool pump. I've been searching the internet for hours, looking at web sites and you Tube videos. This is the best by far. I especially appreciate the detailed wiring instructions. I feel like a confident DIYer thanks to you!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/26/2012
Larry - According to a pump manufacturer, going from a 2" port to a 1 1/2" port will reduce your pumps water flow by 25-40% depending on your pool system configuration. It can be done. In fact that is what we did in this How To Guide. But I wouldn't do it for pumps with a THP rating of greater than 1.5 HP (THP - HP x Service Factor (SF)). You'll put too much stress on the piping. If you see cavitation in the strainer basket after 3-5 minutes of initial priming, you have too much back pressure - the water can't get out fast enough though the 1 1/2" pipe. At this point you might consider reducing the size of your impeller one step.Reply
Larry Posted: 4/25/2012
Question: Same as one previously posted: Inlet and outlet of pump to be replaced are 1 1/2". New pump is 2". OK tol adapt the pump to the 1 1/2" pipe? If so, how will it affect flow rate, efficiency, etc? Thanks in advance.Reply
mschrantz Posted: 2/13/2012
This is a great (and very detailed) description of the installation process for a pool pump. I'm doing this for a Pentair Intelliflow pump and the process is very similar. My only comment is that in Step 26, I believe that you mean cut a 3" (not 3') section of pipe. Using a strap wrench, rathern than channel locks,would be less likely to bugger up the threaded sections. I'd like to see a similarly detailed description of wiring, specifically, grounding, bonding, and installation of a GFCI).Reply
Bobcat Posted: 1/2/2012
Thanks for the information on replacing a pool pumpReply
Anonymous Posted: 6/3/2011
New Sta Rite pumps have 2" fittings, and all old lines and filter use 1 1/2" pipe. Will reducing to 1 1/2" pipes be a problem for the new pump? All lines coming and going to the pool are 1 1/2".Reply