If your pool pump motor starts but shuts down unexpectedly it is probably overloaded and the thermal overload protection device has tripped. This guide discusses what to look for to correct this issue.
Please click here to view our pool motor troubleshooting guide
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/26/2016
nkirkendall - If your pump is labeled as 2 HP and you are using 1 HP replacement pumps, the impeller in your pump is too big for your 1 HP motor. The 1 HP motor cannot drive the same amount of water that the 2 HP motor did and will overheat and eventually fail. You will have to downsize your pump's impeller to match the 1 HP motor. When you buy a new impeller, be aware of which "1 HP" motor you have, uprated or a full rated. See our guide on "How To Understand True Pump Horsepower - Up Rated vs Full Rated".Reply
nkirkendall Posted: 6/24/2016
I have a Pentair SuperFlo pump model 340040. The original motor has been replaced 3 times now and keeps getting hot and shutting off after about 90 seconds. The pump is 2 HP and the motor is 1 HP. Would this cause this? The pool store has given up on trying to help saying they don't think that is my problem and to call an electrician. The electrician says everything checks out...Please HELP!!Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/14/2016
cjs - You might have hit on the problem. When you compare motors, you have to look at their actual or Total HP (THP) which is the product of the list HP times the motor's Service Factor (SF). If your original pump motor had a THP of ~2.0 and it was replaced with a 1 1/2 HP motor with an SF of 1.3, its THP was 1.95. The 2 HP impeller was being driven with a 1.95 THP motor - close enough. If your new motor has a THP of 1 1/2 (e.g. 1 1/2 HP x 1.0 SF) then your new motor may be driving more than it can handle and will overheat and very quickly fail.If you find that your new pump is too small, you do have the option of downsizing the impeller (and maybe the diffuser) one size smaller.
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cjs Posted: 6/14/2016
It's the 1-1/2 HP installation guy again.Thanks for your earlier answers. Much appreciated.
OK so I found after some research that this motor has a START capacitor. Since the motor does start, (but runs hot) doesn't that mean the capacitor is fine and the problem is somewhere else?
The motor did run for several hours before it shut down. Of course I don't know if it shut down due to the motor's thermal overload device or tripped circuit breaker. I turned it on once it cooled and ran fine. I didn't run it long just enough to see it pump.
Replacing the capacitor is easy enough and cheap. Now here's my next issue if it's not the capacitor, what's left? Stationery switch, governor? Could I have burned out the motor windings and/or thermal protection device by running the motor for several hours even though the motor is new?
I just found out that this pump is supposed to have a 2HP motor, not 1-1/2 which is what the old motor was!
Could it be that the impeller and diffuser are for a 2HP motor and it overloads the new motor but didn't bother the old one even though both motors are rated 1-1/2 HP? I'll check those parts in a few minutes to see if the part numbers match up with the HP.
Thanks again
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Anonymous Posted: 6/13/2016
I'm the guy who replaced the 1-1/2 HP motor on his Super Pump II from yesterday. Well now it's running hot, but running without tripping the circuit breaker or thermal breaker on the motor. Now I wonder if running this way will do damage to the motor. The motor is running quietly, pump working normally.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/13/2016
Super Pump II shut down - I would replace the capacitor first. You might get lucky. Then look at the other electrical parts that may have been damaged. See our guide on "How To Replace AO Smith Motor Parts - Overview". If you accidentally shorted out the motor windings, you may have to buy another motor.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 6/11/2016
Recently replaced 1-1/2 HP motor on my Hayward Super Pump II with an A.O. Smith/Century model UST1152. New seals etc. When I first ran it it tripped the circuit breaker. Then I noticed I had scraped the insulation off one of the wires to the capacitor which shorted out the motor. So I wrapped the wire with black electricians tape. The pump then ran fine, quietly but ran hot. After about an hour the circuit breaker tripped. Waited for it to cool and started it again. It ran fine. quiet (just a mild run sound of the motor and water hissing through the pipes) again pump ran well. I shut it off then no use and overheating it again and causing real damage. What could be the issue? Should I replace the capacitor? Could I have burned it out when it shorted out. All the other parts are to spec, or unchanged. Appreciate some guidance. ThanksReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/31/2016
Noel wooden - If the pump was not circulating water for a period of time, you may have shorted out the windings in the motor and will have to replace the motor. If you are lucky, you may just have a bad start capacitor, which would be much easier and cheaper to replace. Check that first if your motor has one. See our guide on "How To Replace a Pool Pump Capacitor".Reply
Noel wooden Posted: 5/29/2016
Our circulation system is located at the bottom of the pool. My husband pushed them down without knowing while I was vacuuming the pool. At first it was running fine, but as soon as I turned it off to unhook the vacuum and turned it back on the motor made a humming noise. Now it will not even come on. The timer has even stopped running. By him pushing them down and the water not being able to circulate back into the pool could he have burnt the motor up or should of the pressure from the water had kept them up. Back a few months ago the motor had made a buzzing noise but stop and was running fine.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/4/2016
djd - Generally this is a voltage problem but if you haven't change any of the electrical - replaced the motor, changed the location of the pump, changed the gauge of wire to the pump - the problem may be mechanical. Check first for a clogged impeller. See our guide on "How To Clean Out a Pool Pump Impeller". Then See our guide on "How To Troubleshoot a Pool Pump Motor - Motor Overheated".Reply
djd Posted: 4/3/2016
I have a Century Centurion 1 hp pump motor. It will run for about 30 seconds then shuts off. The back of the motor is hot to the touch. After cooling for a few minutes it will restart and run for another 30 seconds and then shut off. Is this something that I can fix or do I need to replace motor. I have had motors apart and changed bearings so would like repair if possible.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 2/9/2016
DbIR - Buzzing is characteristic of a bad capacitor. See our guide on "How To Replace a Pool Pump Capacitor"Reply
DblR Posted: 2/7/2016
My pool pump wasn't running this morning. The motor was very hot to the touch. It cooled for a while, clicked and buzzed for a couple seconds and then when silent again. I disassembled the pump and found nothing in the volute. The moter spins by hand but only buzzes under power. Is this just a capacitor issue or is the whole motor gone?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 9/19/2015
docpt - Hayward pumps are among our most reliable and most popular pumps. Very occasionally we get a bad one and that may be your case. Not sure why your store will not exchange it for another Hayward pump. A couple of things to check. Make sure your connections to the pump are tight. Check the supply wire for damage. Make sure the supply voltage is the same as the voltage configuration on the pump. Most pumps are shipped with a 220V configuration. If your supply voltage is 115, you will have some of the results you are experiencing.Reply
docpt Posted: 9/18/2015
Bought Hayward SP2610X15 Super Pump 1.5 HP to replace a generic replacement to my original Hayward. Once installed it ran for 15-30 minutes and shuts off automatically. Wiring are the same, circuit breakers not tripping. Motor seems to be hot. Is this a common Hayward problem. Sad part is I just bought it and had it for 15 days, but pool pump has been off since other than when I try DIY fix and troubleshoot but to no avail. Is this a sign of a bad motor? Store I bought it from will exchange it with a replacement motor but not Hayward. Was I cheated or am I better of with a non-hayward?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/29/2015
gqwilson - This motor should have a thermal overload protector to shut the motor down when it gets too hot. After the motor cools, it should allow the motor to restart. If not, your motor may be shot and you should take it into a motor shop to have it looked at. If it does restart, here are a couple of things to look at to keep it running. Clear any debris away from the bottom of the motor to provide more air flow. Put something over the motor to shade it from the sun - not too close to maintain air flow. The other problem may be low voltage from your power company. When it gets hot, people use more energy and sometimes this reduces the voltage to your house. Lower voltage means higher amperage use which generates more heat in you motor. Ask your power company to check this and see what they can do.Reply
gqwilson Posted: 7/28/2015
Have a one-year-old Hayward 1HP motor (Model C48K2N143B1) that stopped working today. Today's temp was 97, with a heat index of 125. Ground fault breaker did not trip, but motor stopped. Motor was extremely hot to the touch nearly an hour after I noticed it had stopped. Any thoughts?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/27/2015
reddog - It sounds like your motor bearings are going. Bad bearings cause the motor to overheat which trips the motor overload protector until the motor cools and you can start it again and restart the cycle. At this point most people buy a replacement motor.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 6/26/2015
Nagusameru - Check to make sure that your motor's voltage is configured the same as your supply voltage. If you have 115V supply, your motor should be set up for 115V; if supply is 220V, set motor for 220V.Reply
reddog Posted: 6/25/2015
My pool pump is 10 years old.It will start and I can see the water begin to flow and then it shuts off. I wait a few minutes and i can start it again and it does the same thing. My pump is noisy so could this be a bearing issue or something else?Reply
Nagusameru Posted: 6/25/2015
I just recently purchased a new Hayward pool pump and motor (Hayward SP2610X15 Super Pump 1.5-HP) and the problem I'm having with it is once the pump feels up with water and start to cycle, the motor will click off and on about 1 second apart and will just keep doing that until you shut it off. Any ideas or things to try would be greatly appreciated. PS someone told me it might be a faulty switch, but I don't know.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 5/30/2015
Gwade - Not sure what you mean. When you say the pump stops but the motor doesn't, does the water stop flowing while the motor is still running? If so, your pump may be losing prime (can't pull water into the pump). This is usually caused by a suction leak between the pool and the piping going to the pump. See our guide on "How to Identify and Correct Air Leaks".Reply
Gwade Posted: 5/28/2015
My pool pump keeps stopping but the motor keeps running what do I do?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/18/2014
MrFitIt-need advice – At this point with everything you listed that’s wrong with the motor, I would replace the motor. Match your current motor’s HP to the ones listed in our site for the Sta-Rite ABG Series Pump (Key #1). You will also need to replace the Shaft Seal (Key #5).Reply
MrFixIt-need advice Posted: 7/17/2014
Well here's the thing it doesn't have a capacitor, it doesn't have any brushes, so I am not sure what to do here. Was able to toy with the thermal protection called a klixon, adjust it so the motor would at least rotate, but now it's pulling too much current and trips the breaker. The motor is an abg series from sta-rite made for use with splash super pools. It's made by a.o. smith. I am about ready to just get a new motor because I am going on almost 2 weeks of non-circulation in my pool. I would just go get a different/another motor but they're almost $200. So that is a last resort. also the bearing in the back when I spin it by hand, after disassembling the motor I notice that it barely goes two revolutions before it stops rotating. Could the bearing be bad? should I replace both or just the back one? Is there some special tool I will need to remove it without damaging the shaft?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/17/2014
MrFitIt-need advice - Sounds more like a bad start capacitor problem. I would try replacing it first. Look for the MFD and voltage values on the side of the capacitor and match it to our List of Start Capacitors.Reply
MrFixIt-need advice Posted: 7/16/2014
1hp sta-rite ABGseriesI have stated my pool type above, it's having some issues. It seems like the thermal protection device is stuck/and or damaged/shot. I go and turn the pump on it strains, like it's trying to turn but doesn't. Then it trips the dedicated 20A circuit breaker at the panel. What should I do? Any and all help would be appreciated. I have checked the voltage, 109-108v.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/5/2014
gprentice - Thank you very much for providing us with your solution to correcting an overheated motor. I will incorporate it into our guides.Reply
gprentice Posted: 7/3/2014
My Hayward pump kept overheating, it would run for a few hours then shutdown until it cooled down, then started up again. It would continue this cycle over and over. The motor was 13 yrs old.The fix was to open it up from the back, unclip the springs, remove the capacitor, etc. remove the 4 long screws that holds it all together then use fuzzy pipe cleaners to remove cob webs and dirt from the vent ducts that run parallel to the 4 long screws.
Pump works like new again. Noticed a better flow of air through the back vents underneath the motor.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 1/6/2014
jwc – This sounds like a voltage issue. If you have 115V coming into your pump that is set up for 220V, your pump will shut off after running for a short time, then come back on after it resets. Measure your supply voltage to see if it is the same and your pump voltage configuration.Reply
jwc Posted: 1/2/2014
Just replace my Hayward motor on my pool pump with 11/2 century motor but want stay on but for a few secs before turning off, then tries to come on again in about 2 mins, keeps on cycling like this but not staying on, motor feels a little warm for what time it is running. I have electronic control panel and it shows default when it shut off, any suggestionsReply